“Into each life some rain must fall.” – Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
“The best thing one can do when it’s raining is to let it rain.” – Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
Day 51
Light rain, particularly on a warm, muggy day, is a refreshing thing on the AT. Heavy rain and rain that lasts for several days gets old pretty quickly. It makes everything more challenging…the trail can become muddy (or even turn into a stream), the hiking pace slows, rocks become slicker, and visibility drops making the “money” views not so grand. For wearers of glasses, your choices are to take them off and have blurred vision, or leave them on and drive in the rain with no windshield wiper. While the contents of a well-packed and covered backpack can mostly stay dry, the same cannot be said for the hiker carrying it. You end up soaked to the bone by the rain and by your own sweat forming under any attempts to cover yourself with rain gear. Wet socks/feet make you more susceptible to blistering. If it’s rainy and cold, the misery factor increases as does the chance of getting sick.
I Love AT Bugs
Four upsides to all this: 1) water sources will be more frequent and reliable; 2) you appreciate the sunshine that will eventually appear so much more; 3) overcoming shared rainy misery bonds hikers; and 4) like other AT challenges, overcoming extended rain makes you a tougher, more resilient person.
Lindamood School
Day 51 was a rainy day. My approach was to wear very little (shorts, sometimes a shirt, and boots), spend time in prayer, think positive thoughts, and keep moving. Near a stream at mile 540.1, two rabbits hopped by alongside the trail. That didn’t lift my spirits much but here’s what did…Trail Magic! The historic Lindamood School, part of the Settlers Museum, is a one-room schoolhouse from the 1890s. A local Baptist church stocks it with free food, drinks, and supplies for hikers. It would have been magic enough to simply have a place to get a break from the rain. All the goodies inside were a much appreciated bonus. Yet another church group letting their light shine on the AT!
So Far, No Sunshine in VA
After a short, rainy 6.2 mile and day, I decided to stop in Atkins and dry out at the Relax Inn. After checking in, my first stop was the delicious All-You-Can-Eat buffet at the nearby Barn Restaurant, a hiker favorite. By mid-afternoon the rain stopped and I was able to lay out my wet tent and boots in the parking lot while I did laundry. Since the laundry room was next to my room, I was able to put all my clothes in the washer and then sprint to my room wearing just a towel. As I entered my room, I noticed a trellis on the far side of the parking lot that would be a perfect spot to hang my tent. Not seeing anyone around, I grabbed my tent and ran across the parking lot in my towel. After hanging it and beginning the return sprint, I looked over and Princess Grit was entering the parking lot. She yelled, “Is that you, Fob?” and I yelled back, “Never heard of him!” and ducked into my room.
The Barn AYCE!
That night Buddah Jim, Princess Grit, several other hikers and I ate at a Mexican restaurant attached to, appropriately, a gas station. Buddah Jim told me all about his work at a psychiatric hospital. Based on his description of some of the patients, I believe most aspiring thru-hikers would feel right at home there.
Day 52
Before leaving the motel, I picked up a couple of items from the hiker box, including some beef jerky. A few miles after crossing the I-81 underpass out of Atkins, I reached mile 547.275…the one quarter mark on the Appalachian Trail! Later that day, near mile 556, I saw my 6th harmless AT snake.
Snaked Up on Him
At mile 557.3, atop Brushy Mountain, I started getting hungry and remembered the beef jerky I had picked up from the motel’s hiker box. That sounded good so I reached into the package, pulled out two pieces, and stuffed them in my mouth. Instantly, I knew something was wrong. They tasted like wet cardboard that had been sautéed in bacon grease. I gagged for a moment and then swallowed them simply for the calories. A little while later, I commented on the disappointing beef jerky to a fellow hiker. He looked at the package and said, “Dude, you’re eating dog treats!” I couldn’t believe it! There was no mention of dogs or pictures of dogs on the package. There were some Spanish phrases on the package, but nothing about perros (dogs). Later, I complained to Conductor about the misleading labeling. He asked who made them and I told him Gravy Train. He told me Gravy Train is a well-known dog food company, so the package really doesn’t need a warning label stating, “These are dog treats. Not to be consumed by hikers.” And yet, having stuffed the bacon-flavored cardboard in my mouth, I would say it does. They were so bad, in fact, that I’m not even sure our dog, Mandy, would eat them.
Yes, he did!Fob 2 – AT Fish 0
As I ascended Lynn Camp Mountain, I saw and got video of AT Snake #7, a black snake. I checked the forecast and saw that heavy rain was due to hit in about 30 minutes. It was time to descend the mountain in full beast mode. I kicked it into high gear and made it to a pretty campsite right on Lick Creek with enough time to pitch my tent, heat up some instant potatoes to accompany my Mike n Ikes, and hang my bear bag. Then, with the sun setting and a light rain beginning to fall, I caught my second AT fish using a piece of Slim Jim. I would have used some beef jerky for bait, but Gravy Train is really just for dogs.
“The first thing you have to know is yourself. A man who knows himself can step outside himself and watch his own reactions like an observer.” – Adam Smith
“Until you make peace with who you are, you’ll never be content with what you have.” – Doris Mortman
Day 50
I got back on the trail and was a little sad that I had hiked myself out of wild pony country. There were plenty more fields and pastures, though, including one stretch that looked straight out of Little House on the Prairie.
The big goal today was to make it to Partnership Shelter and order a pizza. That’s right, it’s the only AT shelter I know of where you can call and have a pizza delivered to you. It is also the rare shelter that has showers. I arrived there just before 3 p.m. and went in on a large pizza and family-sized cheese bread with Reading Man. We devoured it at the shelter picnic table and shared some with Dirty Deed, Buckles, Grit, Olive Oil, and others.
Partnership ShelterShelter Pizza!
Around 4:30 p.m. I checked the forecast and saw that rain was expected to begin in 3 hours and last for 3 days. Given the somewhat crowded shelter and Fob’s Law #1…”shelters with 7 or more people will have at least one loud snorer who needs to be stabbed in the temple with a spork”…I decided to hike on.
As I climbed Glade Mountain, I could feel the storm approaching and kicked it into high gear to get to a flat spot at the summit. At mile 537.6, after a 19.4 mile day, I pitched my tent, hung my bear bag, and crawled into the tent just as rain started to fall. Before dozing off to heavy rain, I received a message from my friend, Darrell Brimberry, with a video clip of Heart performing Zeppelin’s Stairway to Heaven at the Kennedy Center Honors. Great stuff!
I would estimate that the closest human being to me to the north was more than 1.5 miles away at the next shelter…and more than 5 miles away to the south. That brings up a question that I’m frequently asked by friends and family: Does it bother you to hike alone or sometimes camp alone atop mountains and other remote places?
Dragon Tree…Glade Mountain Companion
I will attempt to answer that in a way that only my youngest, Myers-Briggs loving son, Kyle, aka The Trailpooper, aka B.W. Pot, can appreciate. Isabel Briggs Myers and her mother, Katharine Briggs, developed a personality inventory to make C. G. Jung’s theory of psychological types understandable and useful in people’s lives. (I used to teach AP Psych so bear with me as I geek out a bit.) By answering a series of questions, you can find out to which of the 16 personality types you belong. It turns out both Kyle and I are ENTJs…Extraverted, iNtuitive, Thinking, and Judging…aka, The Commander…aka, The Executive. That’s one reason he and I are so much alike. That can be both a good and bad thing on the AT:
The Good…
– Driven, determined…loves a big challenge (probably explains why I’m out here).
– Confident…given enough time and resources, believes any goal can be achieved, sometimes through sheer willpower.
– Extremely rational…helps with AT decision-making related to logistics, mileage, etc. For big decisions, B.W. Pot and I will typically (and nerdily) write out pros and cons on a sheet of paper to help in our analysis. If I’m feeling especially nerdy, I’ll put said pros and cons into an Excel spreadsheet. What gets me into the Nerd Hall of Fame (and sucks the joy out of life) is when I weight each factor by importance, and then multiply, and then sum the columns to mathematically compute the right, rational, best choice. I still make plenty of bad decisions, but rarely because I didn’t analyze the pros and cons involved.
– The Extroverted (E) nature, which I’m just barely (52%/48%) makes me comfortable and able to draw energy from groups (at shelters, campfires, etc.). I enjoy good conversation and being around people as much as anyone.
– The 48% Introverted (I) nature makes me just as comfortable and able to draw energy from being/hiking alone, solo camping atop a mountain, reading by a quiet lake, etc. Some of my best thinking and writing happens in solitude. Don’t ever worry that I’m unhappy when I’m alone on the trail. Still, I miss my wife whether I’m alone or with people.
– Thinks strategically, with a long term focus (summiting Katahdin), while executing each step of their plans with determination and precision (5 million steps actually!).
– Strong-willed – unlikely to give up when the going gets tough (time will tell)
– Inspirational – hopefully to some…at least my two sons who are my pride and joy and the two folks on the planet I most want to inspire, encourage, and mentor. If I leave any legacy after I’m dead and gone, it will be those two fellas. Well, them and a couple of ladies who have written incredibly encouraging things to me on my Trailjournals guest book.
The Bad…
– Sometimes not emotionally expressive…more likely to analyze/rationalize with a fellow hiker who’s hurting than to give them the hug and shoulder to cry on they actually need.
– Low tolerance for people viewed as inefficient, incompetent, or lazy (“of course you’re struggling, you have a 12-lb. stove!”).
– Can sometimes be condescending, insensitive, and arrogant…not me, but other ENTJs. 🙂
– Too much willpower/confidence can lead to pushing their vision/agenda, and theirs alone. As a mostly solo hiker, it’s probably good that I don’t have to regularly confer/negotiate with others on when to start and stop, where to stay, and the myriad other daily decisions that couples/groups hiking together deal with. All decisions out here are mine alone, however good or bad they be.
– Sometimes impatient and intolerant. More likely to confront (rationally, of course) or walk away from a pot smoker, than to sit there breathing it in and “tolerating” it. Also, I have to take the AT golden rule, “Hike Your Own Hike,” to heart, so as not to be judgmental towards people going about things contrary to my approach (like those who slack pack).
Among the famous ENTJs in history are Julius Caesar, David Letterman, and Jeb Bush…and I can see a bit of each of them in me and Kyle. Other famous ENTJs include Adolf Hitler and Hillary Clinton, the knowledge of which keeps me up at night.
Anyway, I would encourage everyone to take the Myers-Briggs test and see how well it captures your personality. It can help you to leverage your personality strengths and be aware of potential weaknesses. If you disagree with me, you are clearly irrational and need to reconsider your position. I have a spreadsheet you can use.
“One reason why birds and horses arehappy is because they are nottrying to impress other birds and horses.” – Dale Carnegie, How To Win Friends and Influence People
Day 49
Despite my daily routine of mountain Kegel exercises, my bladder woke me up at 6 a.m. and informed me it was time to take a short walk in the woods. As I exited the shelter full of sleeping hikers with regular sized prostates, I heard a sound over by the picnic table. I looked up and there was a wild pony grazing only 10 yards from the shelter. That was an early indication that this was going to a magnificent day 2 on the magical wild pony mystery tour.
Pre-Dawn Shelter Visitor
I packed up and headed AT north towards Grayson Highlands State Park. So without further ado, let me go ahead and announce that we have a new champion for best AT section! Yes, the 5-mile section from the Mount Rogers side trail (mile 497) to the northern end of Grayson Highlands State Park (mile 502.4) is, in my humble opinion, the overall best section of trail to date. The Roan Highlands north of Carvers Gap moves to second place and the section of trail in the Smokies from Spence Field Shelter to Thunderhead Mountain moves to third. What makes Grayson Highlands so special? Start with wonderful vistas in every direction. Add in varied terrain, including rock climbs, rolling balds, majestic forests, and even Fat Man’s Squeeze. Finally, top it off with dozens of midget wild ponies roaming freely. I stopped and visited with several of them. It’s the kind of section you might come up with if you were designing a perfect AT section on a computer. I will be bringing my wife and future grandchildren here someday. You can count on that.
Grayson Highlands
Near the end of this incredible section, I crossed the 500 mile mark on my AT journey. Like so many hikers who have gone before me, I paused for a moment, took a picture, and joined The Proclaimers in singing, “I would walk 500 miles, and I would walk 500 more.” Then I added, “And then I’d walk 500 miles, and then I’d walk 689.1 more.” Shortly after reaching this milestone, I came across trail maintainers from Konnarock, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s flagship crew program. The crew, volunteers of different ages and backgrounds, work on the AT from Rockfish Gap, near Waynesboro, Virginia, to the Trail’s southern terminus at Springer Mountain in Georgia. I stopped for a few moments to thank them for their service and discuss their plans for the day and week. I just really appreciate people who volunteer their time to cut fallen trees, move rocks, shovel dirt, and do whatever else is necessary to give us hikers a much better path to traverse.
And I Would Walk 500 MoreKonnarock Trail Crew
As I approached The Scales livestock corral at mile 505.5, there was a longhorn bull standing in the middle of the trail, just looking at me. I know almost nothing about farming and cattle, but assumed those horns could be used to defend against a coyote, scratch itself, or gore a long distance hiker. I gave him some space and apologized for all the beef I had eaten, and will continue to eat, in my lifetime. He eventually moved on a few feet and I quickly hiked by without incident. As I passed through The Scales corral, I stopped and read a display about the history of the place. Long ago, ranchers determined their cattle were more profitable if they were weighed heavy at a corral atop a mountain, rather than herding them to the valley where they would weigh less. That makes sense.
You want a piece of me?
Around mile 515 it was good to see Cambria and a few other hikers who had stopped along the trail to eat some supper. Cambria, you may recall, is the young lady who was not only born in the same state as me (Delaware), but at the same hospital at Dover Air Force Base. However, since I am roughly thirty years older than her, I suspect our mothers used different Fobstetricians.
Eat More Chicken
After an incredible, 21.1 mile, wild pony-filled day…my longest mileage day to date…I stealth camped by a stream with Conductor, Tumbleweed, and Princess Grit. I learned that Grit is a section hiker from Nashville, Tennessee who models for Nissan at car shows around the country. I waited for her to ask if I, too, was a model, but the question never came.
“I discovered that the horse is life itself, a metaphor but also an example of life’s mystery and unpredictability, of life’s generosity and beauty, a worthy object of repeated and ever changing contemplation.” – Jane Smiley
Day 47
Cy Clops and I awoke and got packed up. I gave him my winter gear (base layer pants and shirt, winter gloves, & thick socks) along with my prescription sunglasses (not used) and rain pants (not used enough) to mail to Janet for me. This will lower my pack weight and volume until I need these items again later on up north.
For the Jarrell Boys
We then headed to Mojoe’s Trailside Coffeehouse for breakfast…Cyclops by car and me my foot, as I had not yet hiked that section of the trail through town. Moses and Conductor joined us for breakfast. Conductor informed us that 25% of aspiring thru-hikers never make it beyond Neels Gap (mile 31.7) and another 25% never make it beyond Damascus (mile 469). While it feels good to have achieved that milestone, being in the “top 50%” isn’t the goal. The goal is to reach Katahdin’s summit and earn the title Thru-Hiker.
Fob & Cy Clops
Moses and I took a few photos with Cy Clops, said our farewells, and headed north out of Damascus…with Bohemian Rhapsody still ringing in our ears. Near mile 474 Moses, Conductor, several other hikers and I stopped for second breakfast and to ponder a warning sign. It told us that a bridge was out .5 miles ahead and thus, to avoid having to ford a river, an approved (and shorter) detour could be taken. Moses, the only one among us with any chance of parting the waters, chose the detour. I had waited a lifetime to ford an AT river and, along with several others, chose not to take the shortcut. I got to the river and saw that there was a moderately risky path across on boulders, but they were slick, wet, and spaced such that trekking poles would be needed to jump from one boulder to the next. It was a water and rock Fobstacle Course. I estimated that I could probably make the journey 3 out of 4 times without falling in. Liking those odds, I just went for it without taking my boots off. I made it! That wouldn’t have happened 30 pounds ago. As I reached the other side, the other hikers were putting on their shoes and socks so I assume they walked across in their water shoes.
Anti-Inflammatory Creek Soak
Light rain fell off and on throughout the day. At mile 481.3 I stopped to eat the second half of my Subway spicy Italian sub from Damascus and soak my feet in a stream. A couple miles later I passed the long and beautiful Luther Hassinger Memorial Bridge. After 15.8 miles I called it a day and tented with Moses, Conductor and others near the Lost Mountain Shelter. Just as I got in my tent and zipped up inside my sleeping bag, the sky opened up and a massive thunderstorm hit. There’s nothing quite like dozing off to sleep atop a mountain with heavy rain pounding the side of your tent.
North of DamascusLuther Hassinger Memorial Bridge
Day 48
Despite rain throughout much of the morning, I was pretty motivated because today we would come to the beautiful Mount Rogers (highest point in Virginia) and scenic, wild pony-filled Grayson Highlands. Near mile 490.6 Moses caught up to me near the summit of Whitetop Mountain. As we sat there on a couple of rocks having snacks, two deer approached fairly closely, froze, stared at us, and then wandered off. I was able to video that and post it to my Facebook page. After descending the mountain, Moses, Olive Oil and I took a long break at the VA 600 parking lot. I spread out my wet rain fly and ground cloth so they could dry out in the sun, and laid in the thick grass picking granola crumbs out of my beard.
Dos Does
After a 12.3 mile day I stopped at Thomas Knob Shelter, well within the southern boundary of wild pony country. While I’m really not much of a horse guy (that’s Lil Jan’s domain), for some reason I was pretty excited to see and interact with some midget wild ponies. Unfortunately, my first interaction was anything but positive. As I traveled for water at a spring 50 yards behind the shelter, I approached a momma pony just standing there a yard or two off the path. At her feet was her dead baby pony or foal. We believe it died in the heavy thunderstorm the night before. A hiker returning from the spring told me the mom had been standing over it for the past three hours. She would occasionally nudge it, trying to wake it up. It was the saddest thing to watch. I wondered how long she would stay there before realizing all hope was gone. Whether it be humans or ponies, there is something very special about the love and care of a mother for her offspring.
Mare in MourningRIP, Lil Foal
As I went to hang my bear bag near the shelter that evening, two wild ponies emerged from the woods and walked right by me. It was strange, exciting, and magical, and I started channeling my inner Dr. Doolittle. I wondered why I was hanging a bear bag, when surely a bear would choose a fresh wild pony over packaged Beef Stroganoff. In my unbridled enthusiasm, I asked if they were from Filly and whether they were Spurs fans. They didn’t speak, but I could tell they thought I was a stud, maybe even the shelter mare. I told them I had Ramen noodle-induced trots, was not stable, and couldn’t talk furlong.
A bit later, just before sunset, I explored an area north of the shelter and came across a campsite with more wild ponies. All I could think of was that every dad (or mom) with a daughter (or son) who loves horses really needs to camp here and give them the experience of a lifetime. I decided it was time to fulfill another sub-AT bucket list item and interview Mary Brook, a wild talking pony. I chose her because of her pleasant disposition, wide girth, and ability to speak English. Video of the interview is posted on my Facebook page. I harnessed my courage and asked her if she had ever seen a long distance hiker better looking than me (answer: nay); whether it bothered her being a midget horse and having people call her names like Colt Shorty-Five (answer: nay); and whether she would like to go to “mane” with me (answer: nay). Off camera she told me, “I canter do this interview any more,” and then left the area with a handsome mustang.
I returned to the shelter, ate some cheese with thorough bread, and then took a position next to Conductor in the shelter’s hind quarters. All horsing aside, I needed a good night’s sleep in order to get out of the gait early and get a leg up on the other hikers.
“Long friendships are like jewels, polished over time to become beautiful and enduring.” – Celia Brayfield
Day 45
NesQuick and I took a selfie, broke camp, and headed north towards Damascus. A few miles into the day’s hike, I saw AT snake #5, a little guy slithering across the trail. At mile 465.1 I crossed the border into Virginia, the 4th of 14 states on the Appalachian Trail. I’ll be in Virginia for over 500 miles…over one fourth of the AT.
NesQuick & FobWhat’s up, Virginia, what’s up? Virginia, jump on it! Jump on it!
After a 12.9 mile day, I entered Damascus, Trail Town America, with NesQuick, Buckles, and Dirty Deed just behind me. We celebrated our arrival at arguably the best trail town on the AT by posing at the town welcome sign. After putting our shirts on, our first stop was Pizza Plus, where I ate a medium meat lovers pizza and a salad and drank 8 glasses of Mountain Dew. My eyes would remain wide open for the next 12 hours.
Lil SnakeLook Out, Damascus!
Among many good town lodging options, NesQuick and I shared a room at Dave’s Place, a cheap, basic hostel associated with the Mount Rogers Outfitter. After a hot shower, I crossed the street to spend some time with the foot guy at the Outfitter. I explained my foot pain and showed him the blisters on the edge of my feet. He listened and examined my feet, boots, socks, liners, and insoles in detail. He said my boots (Oboz Sawtooth Mids) were excellent choices, still fit well, and had plenty of tread on them. The socks and liners were also fine, but he recommended I rotate them with my other set about mid-day, and hang the sweaty ones on the back of my pack to dry. The issue was my insoles. They were too soft/squishy and had flattened out which can happen after 468.5 miles. He recommended I try Superfeet Green Premium Insoles. I did and I felt an immediate improvement! In fact, I jumped up and down in the store with no pain, and came awkwardly close to hugging the foot guy. Count me among the Superfeet fans. I wish I had started with them.
Trail Town, USA, Playground
NesQuick and I re-supplied at the Dollar General. Then he, Conductor, several other hikers and I went to Bobo McFarland’s where I feasted on some fish and chips. I was asked to tell the story behind my trail name for about the hundredth time, and folks still enjoy it. Getting a lot of mileage out of Kyle’s trail poop.
Day 46
Let me tell you about my dear friend, Jeff Battreall. When I arrived at McGuire AFB, New Jersey in 1981 (Christmas week of my 10th grade year) Jeff was one of the first people I met. He was a few years older, but we formed an instant bond. Our dads were both colonels and he lived a few houses down from me on Orly Place (Colonels Row). He was incredibly funny, witty, and sarcastic, and he had a license and really nice Ford Mustang. We shared a similar taste in music and sports (including neighborhood dunk contests on a 9′ rim), and dated the same girl (at different times). He has a larger than life personality and an infectious positive spirit. We would spend hours driving around, sometimes with our ladies, listening to and singing loudly with Queen, Duran Duran, Prince, Styx and the Little River Band. We’ve had extended arguments over who sounds better singing Styx’ Mr. Roboto and the meaning of Prince’s Little Red Corvette. More than anyone else, Jeff made my high school years fun. Beyond the fun, he is a loyal friend and we have remained in contact for the past three decades. He has even visited on a few occasions, including my Air Force retirement ceremony at MacDill AFB, Florida in 2011. I don’t know of a civilian who loves and appreciates the military more than Jeff. It was no surprise when Jeff heard that I was hiking the AT, and said he wanted to meet me in Damascus and hang out.
Beautiful Damascus
Before his noon arrival, I had two priorities to attend to. First, I went to a hostel down the street to do laundry. Second, I Face-Timed with Mr. Terry Reeve’s 6th grade class at Foundation Christian Academy. They are one of two classes following my AT journey and completing some related assignments. I enjoyed talking with them and answering their questions, half of which related to bears and going to the bathroom in the woods.
Band of Brothers
While waiting for Jeff’s arrival, NesQuick and I ran into my hiking buddy, Moses. He was considering hiking out, but I told him Jeff was coming and that meant we had wheels and a fun night in store. He decided to stay and join in on what would become a crazy fun night. Jeff arrived, hugged me, and said, “Here’s your duct tape. See ya later.” I introduced him to Moses and NesQuick and the four of us walked to Hey Joes Tacos and More for lunch. Jeff treated, which was cool of him. Whether it has been five days or five years since I’ve last seen Jeff, we always pick up right where we left off. I told him that in trail towns, hikers are either eating or planning the next meal. It’s what we do. We decided the next stop was the grocery store to get some ice cream, so Jeff drove us there. We then went to Beaverdam Creek and, like the Little Rascals, sat on the creek bank eating Ben and Jerry’s, talking, and enjoying a few moments off our feet.
I Can Explain
We decided Jeff needed a trail name because “Jeff” as a trail name is as boring as they come. Jeff had an eye injury as a child which eventually resulted in him losing the eye as an adult. It was devastating to him at first but, consistent with his nature, he’s learned to take it in stride and even have fun with it. He looked at us and said, “How about Cy Clops?” It never occurred to us to name him after a race of savage, one-eyed giants, but in retrospect it was a brilliant choice. It also signaled that his one eye was fair game for some friendly banter. Eye, for One, loved the name. It’s a (Stevie) wonder we hadn’t thought of it sooner.
After stopping by another Outfitter and then a coffee shop, Cy Clops drove us back down to the center of town. Moses, appropriately focused on the next meal, suggested we drive to Abingdon for supper. That night we went into Abingdon and had fantastic BBQ at Bonefire Smokehouse. It was so good that NesQuick, a vegetarian who hasn’t eaten meat in three years, ate a plate full of pig and cow! As Cy Clops discussed the menu with the waitress, she suggested he consider the 3-meat combo…to which I replied, “he’s had his EYE on that ever since we got here!” NesQuick and Moses nearly spit water out as we laughed uncontrollably.
Bonefire Smokehouse…Turning Vegetarians to the Dark Side
On our way back to Damascus, Cy Clops reached for the radio. I just knew he was going to play Eye of the Tiger, Hungry Eye, Don’t It Make My Brown Eye Blue, or For Your Eye Only. NesQuick was expecting Brown Eyed Girl, When You Close Your Eye, Private Eye, or Betty Davis Eye. Moses was holding out for In Your Eye, Eye Without a Face, You Can’t Hide Your Lyin’ Eye, or anything from Third Eye Blind. Instead, we returned to our roots and started rocking out to Queen, Prince, Michael Jackson, and the Backstreet Boys. Cy Clops and I shared lead vocals, while NesQuick and Moses handled backup vocals and lead air guitar and air drums from the backseat. We sang our hearts out. Prince would have wanted us to. It felt like 1983 at McGuire AFB all over again. We could have only sounded better had we been in a recording studio…and had talent. Cy Clops circled the grocery store parking lot two dozen times as we sang Bohemian Rhapsody. (See the video at https://youtu.be/ZeMyEXRbxbY )
As we sang, “Momma, just killed a man…put a gun against his head, pulled the trigger, now he’s dead” with the windows down, three concerned young skateboarders picked up their boards and left the parking lot. We cruised the “backstreets” of Damascus several times singing I Want It ThatWay. To Cy Clops’ credit, he kept one eye on the road…for he could do no more.
Cy Clops and I returned to the hostel and talked for a couple more hours. He told me about some of the celebrities he had met and interacted with during his many years as a flight attendant. The list includes Dr J (enormous hands), Kate Beckinsale (during a 30-minute conversation, he offered her his thoughts on a character in a tv series her husband produces), Nelly (charged his phone using Jeff’s portable battery), Larry Bird (told him he could lie down in the aisle if his back hurt), Prince Andrew, Vanilla Ice, Cheap Trick, George Carlin, Darryl Dawkins (Chocolate Thunder), Ron Howard, and Bo Jackson.
The conversation then became a little more serious. We shared our experiences and pain related to the deaths of our mothers…and he discussed the difficulty in losing his eye and the end of his marriage. It was a good “bro talk” and felt good to share some deep thoughts, something “bros” are not always good at. He showed me the SOCOM coin I had given him at my retirement ceremony, and then reciprocated by giving me a set of his flight attendant wings and a Paracord Survival Strap Bracelet with OEF (Operation Enduring Freedom) Veteran written on it. It was a very thoughtful gesture and I will wear the bracelet proudly on my thru-hike attempt.
A Very Special Gift
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…hiking 2189.1 miles and reaching Katahdin’s summit is my ultimate bucket list goal. But the AT is so much more about the journey…the interesting people, the views, the trail towns, and all the crazy things that happen along the way. That’s why I try hard not to get caught up in the mentality of having big mileage days and getting the trail done quickly. The AT is a magnificent, 22-course meal that is meant to be slowly savored a bite at a time. The last one from the dinner table wins. While I’m sure many great memories and experiences remain in store for me, I doubt there will be a more fun night than the one had by Fob, Moses, NesQuick, and Cy Clops as they cruised the Damascus roads and partied like it was 1999.
“A good character is the best tombstone. Those who loved you and were helped by you will remember you when forget-me-nots have withered. Carve your name on hearts, not on marble.” – Charles H. Spurgeon (1834-1892), English Preacher
Day 43
Sadly, my reunion with Lil Jan had come to an end, and she drove me back to the Shook Branch Recreation Area. Her parents (MawMaw and Papa) and sister and brother-in-law (Carol and Scott) were in the area visiting Janet’s other sister and decided to stop by and hug my neck. It was great to see them if only for a few minutes. After saying our goodbyes, and giving Lil Jan a final kiss, they departed.
Love my in laws!
One thing that will help take the sting out of saying goodbye is a bit of…Trail Magic! Yes, right there at the Rec Area a group of 2015 thru-hikers had reunited from different parts of the country to set up a magnificent cookout. I knew it would be special because those who have hiked the trail know just how to serve up some magic. Among many possible options, I went with a bacon cheeseburger, chips, soda, and dessert. I sat there for 30 minutes picking their brains about their experiences and what to expect as I head northward. So, I want to give a big shout out to Rock Boat, Forward, Jeopardy, Doc, Klank, and Poboy for the conversation and the magic. (I would learn later that Forward is friends with Karen King, a church friend from our Virginia days.)
The Magic Continues
One of the last things said to me by Rock Boat was, “There were lots of good and bad things that happened on the trail, but I only remember the good stuff.” His comment gave me something to think about as I headed out for the beautiful, several mile long hike along Wautaga Lake. Did he actually forget the bad stuff that happened on his thru-hike? Or, was the bad stuff, in the context of the overall hike, eventually considered to be part of the good stuff? For example, was the hike through a thunderstorm (considered “bad” at the time) ultimately considered part of the “good” because he had overcome it, survived, and developed a closer bond with other survivors as a result? In James 1:2-4, James writes, “Consider it pure joy, my brothers and sisters, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith produces perseverance. Let perseverance finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything.” I’m trying to take these verses to heart and really apply them out here. I’m trying to find joy in the thunderstorm, the foot/toe numbness, the homesickness, and other trail trials, knowing that God will somehow use them to make me a more mature and complete person and Christian. Overcoming some “bad” stuff has already increased my trail perseverance, resolve, and “bad” tolerance levels, and a goal is to have that translate back in the real world. I want to more consistently find joy in the seemingly good and bad, and know that God will use both to mold me into the man he wants me to be. I also want to have a much higher percentage of bad stuff…daily annoyances, perceived slights, inconveniences, traffic jams, cold showers, etc…be small stuff that I don’t sweat.
Charred Forest
As I hiked along the lake, I passed the Wautaga Lake Shelter that has been closed due to bear activity. I also passed a 1/2 mile long section of the trail which had burned in the recent forest fire (arson suspected). Later, a group from the Centerview Church of Christ, where I had worshipped the preceding Sunday, passed me from the other direction. It was great to see David Irick, one of their ministers, and other familiar faces, out on a day hike. We spoke for a few moments and David was kind enough to give me my first Yoo-hoo chocolate drink. Later, near Wilbur Dam Road, I enjoyed one final parting gift from the Centerview congregation…a cooler full of Throwback Mountain Dew!
Thanks, Centerview Church of Christ!
After a fairly easy 9.1 mile day, I stayed at the Vandeventer Shelter with a gorgeous view behind it. The shelter and surrounding tent sites were full that night, with a cast of characters including 5-Star, Odysseus, and NesQuick (my hiking buddy from the Great Smoky Mountains Bubble). There was also a rather odd fellow (section hiker) who said he and his fiancé had been robbed of their food and money while getting water at a shelter a few days prior. Then they had a big fight and were now hiking in opposite directions, even though they were “on their way to Texas.” I wondered if he knew the AT doesn’t go through Texas. He had no food, no stove, his phone was dead, and he never got out of his sleeping bag. This all seemed rather bizarre to me. Although he didn’t ask for any help, the aspiring thru-hikers passed around a large ziplock bag at campfire that night and filled it with snacks for him. That night, I did my best to find joy in the loud snoring of the hiker right next to me in the shelter. Maybe his snoring kept the mice away.
Sunrise at Vandeventer Shelter
Day 44
I awoke and immediately had two things working in my favor: an early start (6:50 a.m., to get away from Sir Snores-a-Lot) and a relatively flat topography ahead. This had the potential to be a big mileage day, although that’s rarely my goal.
Always reminds me of B.W. Pot, aka the Trail Pooper
At mile 444 I passed the Uncle Nick Grindstaff Monument. According to his tombstone, he was born December 26, 1851 and died July 22, 1953. He lived as a hermit on Iron Mountain the last 40 years of his life, and his tombstone reads, “He lived alone, suffered alone, and died alone.” For more on his life and story, check out… http://appalachiantreks.blogspot.com/2012/07/uncle-nick-grindstaff.html?m=1
As I descended Iron Mountain, I looked down at my sweaty right forearm and noticed my first AT tick walking along it. I brushed him off and spent the next mile running my fingers through my hair and checking various body crevices. I fear ticks and the diseases they carry more than I fear snakes and bears combined. (Although a combined Snake-Bear would be fairly intimidating.)
A Real Beard and A Wanna BeA Break from the Mountains
At mile 447.3 I began a peaceful, scenic walk through a pasture. Out here on the AT, I love how God can just flip a switch and send us from mountains to pastures, from wind to stillness, and from shady laurel valleys to sunny ridges in mere moments. If you don’t like the scenery, keep hiking and wait a few minutes. Halfway across the pasture I stopped and visited with Mountain Man, a rare southbound hiker. We exchanged trail notes and our beards posed for a selfie together. Later, I came across a metal cage full of…Trail Magic! I had a soda and a snack, courtesy of the Girls in Action, a 4th-6th Grade mission group from the Nelson Chapel Baptist Church, Mountain City, Tennessee. I hope my fellow hikers and I don’t just see and appreciate the magic, and the Trail Angels, but also the faith in Christ and desire to live like Him that motivates much of it. In other words, I hope they receive not just the Mountain Dew, but ultimately the Gospel Message that can really change their lives, and mine.
Carving Out a Campsite
As I descended Locust Knob, I met a couple from Johnson City out on a day hike. They have hiked local AT sections and other area trails for the past decade and have set up numerous off-trail secret campsites behind rock formations and other barriers for their own use. He asked if I noticed the two mating butterflies floating around about 30 yards south. I told him I had, but wasn’t sure if they were mating or just holding hands. He asked, “Did you notice they were two different species? That’s just wrong.” I suggested maybe a third species would result, but that didn’t satisfy him. He also told me the green plant I had been seeing in abundance all day long was a May Apple.
May AppleMay Apples
After a 20.2 mile day, I stealth camped near a spring at mile 456.1. A short time later, NesQuick (who is having serious foot issues) and Dawn (aka Slim Rim, from Vermont) joined me and tented nearby. As we ate supper (for me, that meant Mountain House Pasta Primavera with 2 Parmesan cheese packets), she asked about my family and I bragged on my sons for a few minutes. She replied, “That’s really cool. I hope my dad talks that way about me when I’m not around.” I hope he does too.
Baby lock the door and turn the lights down low Put some music on that’s soft and slow Baby we ain’t got no place to go I hope you understand
– Josh Turner, from Your Man
Days 40-42
I awoke on the day I would be reunited with my wife! Although it had only been 40 days in the wilderness, I missed her even more than I did while I was deployed to Afghanistan for nearly six months. I can’t explain that, but maybe it’s because there is more solitude on the trail, and I’m more in love with her today than I was in 2007.
Wautaga LakePassing Time with Feathered Friends
At the bottom of the hill, I discovered some… Trail Magic! Yes, some 2015 thru-hikers had left a cooler of ice-cold sodas and I helped myself to a 7-Up. After a whopping .4 mile hike that took all of 10 minutes, I sat down at a picnic table near the swimming area at the scenic Shook Branch Rec Area on Wautaga Lake. For the next 2.5 hours, I would feed crackers to ducks and geese and their offspring, inventory my food, and think about the arrival of my gorgeous wife!
I’ve been thinking ’bout this all day long Never felt a feeling quite this strong I can’t believe how much it turns me on Just to be your man
Our View
After 2.5 hours which felt like 10, Lil Jan pulled up in our Lil Honda Fit! I was curious to see if she would be in a yellow springy dress like I had requested. (I have a thing for yellow springy dresses even though she tells me they are out of fashion.) Like an angel sent from heaven, she jumped out of the car, wearing a stunning yellow springy dress, and came running toward me faster than I’ve ever seen her run! Wow! Just wow!
There’s no hurry Don’t you worry We can take our time Come a little closer Let’s go over What I had in mind
We embraced and kissed and my heart just melted. One of the geese teared up. She looked sooooooo good! I felt bad that I was a stinky, nasty hiker who hadn’t showered in days. If that bothered her, she didn’t let on.
Before heading to the lakeside cottage she had rented for 3 nights (3 nights!), we went into Hampton to grab lunch and then to a small country grocery store. She was getting our food for the cottage and I was re-stocking my trail food. As she perused the food options from aisle to aisle, I couldn’t take my eyes off of her. I was stalking her without her knowing it. She looked so good. Someone once said, “Life is not measured by the number of breaths you take, but by the moments that take your breath away.” I had four such moments just watching her check the expiration dates on sandwich meat an aisle over. Her yellow dress was the brightest thing in the store, maybe even the town, and I was the luckiest man alive.
As we drove toward the cottage, we stopped by our pickup point and gave ice cream sandwiches to Brief Thief and another hiker….I think it was Bevo. The 30 minute drive seemed to take 3 hours. I was torn between wanting her to drive safely on the curvy mountain roads and wanting her to go all Crazy Taxi. We finally arrived to an adorable cottage overlooking Wautaga Lake. It had everything we needed, including a secluded hot tub with a view of the lake. I had planned to pick her up and carry her across the threshold, but was too exhausted after lugging her 90 pound suitcase up the stairs. Once inside, my mind raced as I processed so many competing priorities…close the sliding door I had just opened, put the ice cream in the freezer, take a hot shower, drink a quart of milk, get caught up on family news…
Baby lock the door and turn the lights down low Put some music on that’s soft and slow Baby we ain’t got no place to go I hope you understand
I’ve been thinking ’bout this all day long (40 days actually) Never felt a feeling quite this strong I can’t believe how much it turns me on Just to be your man
The next 3 days would be the most relaxing and satisfying I’ve ever had. Lil Jan fed me all of my special food requests, pampered me, massaged me (even my feet!), and stretched me. The hot tub was piping hot and quite refreshing for my aching body. As for the conversation, it was exhilarating and breathtaking (even for a long distance hiker). She brought me up on family news like never before.
Ain’t nobody ever love nobody The way that I love you We’re alone now You don’t know how Long I’ve wanted to
Lock the door and turn the lights down low Put some music on that’s soft and slow Baby we ain’t got no place to go I hope you understand
Hot Tub! Just what the doctor ordered!
I am so richly blessed being married to Lil Jan. She has encouraged me so many times in so many ways in the 3+ decades I’ve known her. The three magical days and nights on Wautaga Lake are just the latest example. She is a wonderful Christian mom who raised two outstanding young men. She is the kind of friend that everyone deserves to have at least one of in their lifetime. She is a nurturer, a giver, and a leader. She is sexy, funny, and a talented singer and speaker. I learned recently she is even comfortable handling weapons at a firing range! Who knew? She is the only person on the planet I could live in a 32′ house on wheels with and never grow tired of it. It’s a cliché, but without a doubt she makes me want to be a better man. She dazzled me the first time I met her and has only grown more beautiful through the years. If you are wondering whether 6 months on the AT can hurt a relationship, I say “not this one”. We’re in it for the long haul…til death do us part. So just how does it feel to be her man? Take us to the end, Josh…
I’ve been thinking ’bout this all day long Never felt a feeling quite this strong I can’t believe how much it turns me on Just to be your man I can’t believe how much it turns me on Just to be your man
“Then He said to them, ‘Follow Me, and I will make you fishers of men.'” – Matthew 4:19
Day 38
I got an early start on our warmest day yet. As I crossed a footbridge near mile 404, I saw my first AT rabbit. He glanced at me and hopped away, not wanting to be spork-shanked, field dressed, and eaten by Sir Fob.
At mile 406.7 I crossed U.S. Forest Service Road 293. Little did I know that just 24 hours later, hikers would be diverted down this road to avoid a forest fire in the area. I cleared this section of trail just in time.
By late morning I caught up with SpongeBob and we hiked together for about an hour. He is a recently retired doctor from Hawaii out living his bucket list dream. He wants to transition from working with humans to working with animals as a biologist. A friend of his has a job that includes doing autopsies on dead whales to determine the cause of death. He’s helped her with that and wants to do more of that kind of thing. At my request he also gave me a rundown on the pros and cons and touristy things to do at each of the major Hawaiian islands. Now I just have to figure out how to get the RV there.
I Spy A Snake
As I descended White Rocks Mountain I saw my third AT snake slithering across the trail. After a warm, muggy 16.3 mile day, I headed .3 miles west on Dennis Cove Road to the popular Kinkora Hostel, operated by the legendary Bob Peoples. As hostels go, it’s pretty primitive. The suggested $5 donation gets you a bunk to sleep on, a hot shower, a shuttle to town, and access to a kitchen.
Bob & Fob
What sets this hostel apart is Bob Peoples, one of the most interesting people I’ve met on my AT journey. In addition to running the hostel for the past 20 years, he is an avid trail maintainer who takes hikers (on their days off) and other groups out to repair sections of trail. He loves the AT like few others, and loves interacting and sharing his experiences with hikers. While eating a large pizza (thanks, Stitch!), I sat listening to him with my fellow hikers. Here is just a sampling of some of his tales…
– The worst hiking injury he’s seen is a woman who broke her femur so badly that it dislodged her artificial knee. Sounds really painful. She had to be airlifted out.
– He explained how decisions are made regarding the building of shelters and privies. There are plants and animals that are considered endangered by one state (like North Carolina) but not another (like Tennessee). So at the top of a mountain shared by both states, that might affect where you place a shelter or privy. He also discussed the 2-foot long earthworms that live atop Roan Mountain.
– He explained the detailed, 3-year, multi-agency process to re-route a new section of trail, and some of the requirements involved, like maximum slope. (The folks at Jacob’s Ladder didn’t get the memo!)
– When you depart the Kinkora Hostel and get back on the AT northbound, you’ll soon come to a Pond Mountain Wilderness sign. If you travel six more white blazes (at about mile 418.8), an unmarked trail will break off to your left (the river will be on your right). You can take that unmarked trail to a “private, secluded swimming hole” perfect for you and your honey. (Being honey-less, I didn’t explore this side trail, but expect The Brimberry’s to do so on their 2018 thru-hike and report back.)
– Some privies have worms in the drop zone (my term, not his) to aid in the breakdown of solid matter. The reason hikers are asked to poop, but not pee, in said privies is because too much urine will drown the worms. I can’t think of a worse way to die for a worm than by urine-drowning in a poop filled privy. I started to explain that when I do #2 in a privy, there’s no way to stop #1 from happening, but that seemed like TMI at the time.
– He explained how wood used to build shelters and footbridges is carried up and down mountains. In situations where it’s necessary and feasible to use a 4 wheeler, they will do that build in the winter on snow, so as not to tear up the trail.
In Memory of Dwight & Dagan Cope
– He cautioned us about the upcoming Laurel Falls, the biggest and best waterfall on the entire AT. It’s important not to swim at the base of the falls, to the left as you look at them. Several have died doing so, including a father and son on July 4th, 2012. There is a whirlpool there that will submerge any and everything in its path for four to four and a half minutes. (Bob has tested it with a backpack.) They believe the dad went in to try to save his son, because dad was recovered with hiking socks on. Really tragic.
– He met one hiker who was attempting a thru-hike despite stage-4 cancer and a prognosis that didn’t look good. On his day off, the hiker volunteered to deliver a toilet seat to a privy that had just been built. On his way, he convinced several other hikers that he was taking the toilet seat with him on his thru-hike as a comfort item. Nice! (By the way, said hiker is not only still alive but said to be improving.)
– He gave us updates on the forest fires that were burning, or had been burning, at locations both north and south of our present location.
– He explained the back story on the closing of the Wautaga Lake Shelter (in 2014, 2015, and recently) due to aggressive bear activity. It seems a local hunter (and jerk) began placing food at the shelter to bait a bear. During hunting season, the hunter returned and killed the mother bear. However, her two male cubs survived and associated that shelter with food. Recently, some section hikers tented there and hung bear bags, but kept a few snacks in their tents and were harassed throughout the night by the bear brothers. So due to the actions of a thoughtless hunter, none of us get to camp on the portion of the AT that runs along Wautaga Lake.
-His wife returned from a horse show several years ago and wasn’t feeling well. She died from cancer just 9 months later. She was the love of his life. It taught him to do the things you want to do in life, because you can be gone just like that.
– One time as a teenager in Alabama he and some friends went skinny-dipping at a stagnant pond near Squalid Hollow. As they lay there eating Moon Pies and sunning themselves in all their glory on the muddy bank, a shadow appeared from the woods on the opposite side of the pond. Just then, a hairy creature, about 7 feet tall but hunched over, emerged from the woods. It was, without a doubt, the legendary Sasquatch. It walked along the edge of the water as the boys gazed in amazement. It then stopped, turned its head toward them, grunted, and then headed off into the woods. Wait…my bad. That wasn’t a Bob Peoples’ story…I heard that one from Rex Dutton, a preacher friend of mine.
– And finally, Bob told us a story about “Hike Naked Day” which occurs every year on the AT on the summer solstice, the first day of summer in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s traditional to hike at least a portion of the day in the nude, although compliance varies. A few years ago a group of four young, male 20-something hikers were cruising along on Hike Naked Day wearing nothing but boots, their backpacks, and a bandana hanging from the front of their hip belt to at least partially Fobscure their junk. Their butts were exposed. Well it just so happens Hike Naked Day that year fell on the same weekend as one of the local town’s
Rhododendron Festival. This festival brings together hundreds of mostly geriatric women from around the country to celebrate Rhododendron (however one goes about doing that). Among the activities is a few mile hike on a Rhododendron-heavy section of the Appalachian Trail. You can see where this is going. Yes, reportedly there were several “interactions” between these nude hikers (and probably other naked hikers) and the sweet little old ladies who hadn’t signed up for the Dangling Pear Festival. Word of these encounters caused the mayor, festival planners, and AT officials to worry that this could harm the festival and cause hard feelings toward the AT community. Those concerns turned out to be unfounded, as Rhododendron Festival attendance tripled the following year!
After story time was over, I went to sleep upstairs at the hostel about 10:30 p.m. At midnight I woke up tossing and turning, with Bob Peoples’ trail stories still stirring in my head. I turned on my headlamp and wrote a song, the previously blogged “My Favorite Trail Things”…then turned off my headlamp and fell into a deep sleep.
Day 39
I slept in today because I had only 8.2 miles to hike to put me in striking distance of the rendezvous pick-up point with Lil Jan the following day. By the time I rolled out of bed, all but two of the other hikers were long gone.
As I relaxed and ate breakfast, I got into an interesting discussion on religion with a fellow hiker taking a zero to rest his feet. Like a few of my fellow students, and more than a few hikers I’ve encountered, he’s somewhat skeptical on matters of faith. He’s big into science and looks more for scientific explanations for things, rather than a Creator-God. I told him I was a believer and that the things I’d seen on the trail had only strengthened my faith. I shared a story with him that I have found helpful on my faith journey. A man hikes way out into the woods, far from civilization, and stumbles upon the most magnificent, million dollar cabin he’s ever seen. The perfectly manicured lawn and landscaping draw him closer and he discovers the cabin is unlocked. He steps inside to an immaculate interior with all the latest furnishings, expensive hand-crafted furniture, marble hot tub, computer-operated controls for heating and lighting, big screen TV with theater seating, state-of-the-art appliances, etc. He’s never seen such an incredible place where clearly no expense has been spared. He steps outside, sees a man pass by, and inquires about the cabin. The man tells him there had been a massive explosion in the woods, a Big Bang, with wood and rock flying in every direction. The cabin, and everything in and around it, just happened to land that way…nothing but pure chance. It was a freak of nature and no one designed any of it. As crazy as that sounds, imagine a universe, or just a human body, or just an eyeball, that is infinitely more complex than that cabin. To me, the AT has simply presented more evidence that there is a Creator-God behind our magnificent universe. I think it actually takes a greater leap of faith to believe this universe all came about by chance. I enjoyed the discussion with my fellow hiker. There was no judging or condemning or name-calling. We were just two hikers processing all that we have seen out here, respectfully sharing some thoughts, and trying to work out our salvation with fear and trembling (Philippians 2:12). We each gave each other some things to think about.
Laurel Falls
Just 1.3 miles into the day’s hike, I descended upon the beautiful Laurel Falls, which lived up to its hype. I saw the dangerous whirlpool and a nearby plaque on a tree honoring Dwight and Dagan Cope, the father and son adventurers who died there. Rather than swim, I hiked a hundred yards or so downstream to try to catch a fish. Catching a fish while hiking the AT, without using a rod and reel, was on my AT bucket list. Using a spool of string, lead weight, hook, bobber, and tiny piece of Snickers, I tossed the hook out into some rapids that had water pooling at their base. No luck. After a couple more unsuccessful tosses, I switch to a tiny piece of Slim Jim for bait. Bam! On the first toss I landed a trout! I’m not gonna lie…I felt like a Hunter-Gatherer saving his tribe from starvation, despite the three days worth of food in my food bag. I let the fish go, saw AT snake #4 on some rocks near my backpack, and continued hiking.
A Rare Calzone TreeJust Pull Off a Chunk & Dip in Marinara Sauce
After climbing one final mountain in hot, humid conditions, I tented at a campsite with Gentle Ben from Idaho. I enjoyed talking to him, but I couldn’t stop thinking about Lil Jan, my wife and best friend for the past 28 years. She was going to drive 3 hours in the morning to pick me up at the Shook Branch Recreation Area on Wautaga Lake. I was beyond excited. I was like a kid trying to go to sleep the night before Christmas, knowing he has been a (mostly) good boy and Santa was about to deliver the goods!
“Dedicate some of your life to others. Your dedication will not be a sacrifice. It will be an exhilarating experience because it is intense effort applied toward a meaningful end.” – Thomas Dooley
Day 36
I awoke and quietly got ready in the loft as the University of Florida students snoozed nearby. On the other side of them was Lost Gear, an African-American, retired Marine who was doing a 3-day section hike with an eye toward a thru-hike with fellow Marines some day. He was out of water and didn’t have a filter, so I hooked him up with some filtered water and enjoyed our brief conversation.
I then climbed the incredibly scenic Little Hump and Hump Mountains. As I climbed, I started channeling my inner Secret Life of Walter Mitty. I imagined being Mitty (played by Ben Stiller) as he climbs the Himalayas in search of Sean O’Connell (played by Sean Penn), who is on a summit photographing a rare snow leopard. Halfway up Hump Mountain, I stopped for a selfie. I glanced at it and asked myself, “When did you join the Taliban?”
Little Hump Mountain
Later on, I met a hiker named Chopper who got that name from having to be medically airlifted to a hospital while hiking. They told him he had drank plenty of water, but not enough electrolytes. He was a huge proponent of putting electrolyte tablets in your drinking water while hiking, and I’ve been doing so ever since. At mile 390.1, Doll Flats, I left North Carolina for the last time on my AT journey.
After a 9.2 mile day, I arrived at US 19E (Roan Mountain) and hiked .3 miles west to the Mountain Harbour Bed and Breakfast/Hiker Hostel. Upon arrival at the hostel, Hightop and his dog were kind enough to share their pizza with me. Sharing the hostel with us were Bevo (from Austin, Texas), Not a Bear (has a black backpack that sometimes other hikers mistake for a bear), Ptarmigan (named after a Colorado hiking club…and a bird), Morning Lori (from Maine), and Cactus (from Dallas). Cactus got that name by falling on a prickly pear cactus while hiking in the hill country of Texas. The cactus needles stuck into him all over his rear end and thighs. In severe pain, he dropped his shorts and underwear and bent over so that a friend/fellow hiker could pull out the imbedded cactus needles. Unbeknownst to Cactus, once all the needles were gone, the “friend” continued pulling out his butt hairs for several minutes, as others looked on smiling. That’s just wrong.
Bob’s Dairyland!
At the hostel parking lot I ran into Lost Gear, the Marine I had shared a loft with. He offered me a ride into town, where I picked up some groceries at Redi Mart and had a filling steak supper and peanut butter milkshake dessert across the street at Bob’s Dairyland. Needing a ride back to the hostel, I approached a young local guy filling up his pickup truck with gas and asked him for a ride. He agreed but said he’d need to clear out a spot for me. We walked to the passenger side and the seat was filled with what appeared to be his life possessions…pictures, glasses, clothes, thermos, lampshade, etc. I helped him move the stuff to the bed of his truck with his other possessions, and felt bad that he was going to this trouble for me. During our 5-minute drive, I learned that he and his girlfriend had just had a fight and that she had kicked him out, along with his stuff. He said, “it was all my fault,” to which I thoughtlessly responded, “probably so.”
Day 37
By far the best thing about the Mountain Harbour Hostel was the optional, $12, all you can eat breakfast buffet. That’s about six times what I normally spend on breakfast, but I’d have to say it was the most satisfying breakfast I’ve eaten in my 50 years. Watching ravenous, hairy, rough-looking hikers walk up the stairs from the hostel to the up-scale B&B to line-up for breakfast was quite the sight. Like ornery 7th grade boys lined up outside the principal’s office, we were anxious, fidgety, and drooling just a tad. We finally were allowed in where we devoured a simply magnificent breakfast. I ate and ate and ate some more, and drank at least 20 cups of orange juice, cran-Apple juice, and coffee.
Mountain Harbour Breakfast!
In my desire to attend worship services whenever I’m in a trail town on a Sunday, I did some Google-ing and eventually stumbled on a potential lead…Tom and Sandra Johnson from Roan Mountain, Tennessee and the Centerview Church of Christ of Elizabethton. I called them and explained my situation and they graciously agreed to pick me up at the hostel, take me to church, and then deliver me back to the trailhead. That’s what you call a very sweet couple and a very successful phone call. My brothers and sisters in Christ were so kind to me. The services were uplifting and they invited me to the front of the line at their potluck luncheon! While Catholics are known for rosary beads and Jews for the menorah, members of the churches of Christ can do casseroles better than anyone! Romans 12:13 reads, “Share with the Lord’s people who are in need. Practice hospitality.” My heartfelt thanks to Tom and Sandra and the rest of this church family for your warm hospitality!
Church Potluck400 Miles!
I got back on the trail at 2:20 p.m. and was able to get in 9.2 miles of hiking. At mile 396 I passed a scenic wilderness cemetery and regretted no other hikers were nearby to tell my cemetery joke to…”Did you know none of the locals are buried in that cemetery? Yeah, it’s because they’re not dead yet.” At mile 398.5 I took a short blue blazed trail to get a picture of Jones Falls. At 399.2 I began a nice section along the Elk River, the longest riverside hike to date. I stopped for a moment and pulled my first ramp out of the ground, wiped the dirt off of it, and ate it. Ramps are delicious wild onions that can be eaten raw or cooked with Ramen noodles or pretty much anything. They trash your mouth out, but that’s not really an issue out here. At mile 400 I stopped to take a picture of a mile 400 milestone that someone had left. On the one hand, 400 miles seems like a long way to hike. On the other hand, I’ve gone less than 19% of the AT, so there’s a lot of work left to do.
Jones FallsElk River
That night I decided to sleep in the Mountaineer Shelter, a rare 3-level shelter. I was joined in and around the shelter by Black Bear (from Maine), SpongeBob, Sunshine, and OutStanding. As I prepared to climb up to the second level, I noticed shelter graffiti which read, “Brooks was here. So was Red.” Just for the record, so was Fob.
