I write this on Monday, June 1st, late afternoon and evening, having consumed a double Expresso, two Americanos, a regular coffee, and three Cola Lights today. I’m amped.
Before returning to Paul’s 2nd missionary journey, some general observations and facts about Greece:
- The country is every bit as beautiful as I had hoped it would be. It’s no wonder over 33 million people visit Greece annually—more than three times its population. As my friend Joe reminded us, “Greece is the word.”
- Greece is one of the world’s sunniest countries, with an average of 250 sunny days per year. Some of its islands are sunny an average of 300 days. I guess you could say it gets its Cher of Sonny.
- Greece is overwhelmingly religious, with approximately 81% to 90% of the population adhering to the Eastern Orthodox Church, the constitutionally recognized prevailing religion. The rest of the population consists of smaller communities, including Muslims, Roman Catholics, Protestants, and unaffiliated or secular individuals. There are mosques here, although I’ve yet to see one.
- There are 6000 islands in Greece but people live on only around 200 of them.
- 80% of Greece is made up of mountains.
- Athens has more theaters than any other city in the world, and Greece has more archaeological museums than any other country.
Friends, nothing can substitute for standing and walking in the world of the events of the Bible. These trips flesh out the New Testament in ways that add color, texture, smells, and sights—which place the world on a mental map and make it alive and vibrant. If you ever have the opportunity to explore the Bible lands, I encourage you to do so.
Paul went from being someone who zealously persecuted Christians to one who passionately proclaimed the gospel of Jesus Christ. That leads to our first take-away…
Lesson 1: As I often tell the prisoners I minister to, no matter your past, no matter how messed up your life may be, don’t think for a moment God can’t redeem your story and use you to grow His Kingdom. God had a plan for Paul and He has a plan for you.
Continuing Paul’s story… he received direction to go westward across the Aegean Sea to the region of Macedonia, moving the team from the continent of Asia to the continent of Europe. God’s plan for Paul was not to reach a few cities in his region but to win an entire continent for Christ.
There was no hesitation. A strong, godly man led a strong, godly team. Today, God still calls people to the mission field, ranging from your family to your neighborhood to perhaps some far away places.
Lesson 2: How will you respond to God’s call? As one preacher recently put it, our mission isn’t to do what Jesus did—that’s impossible. The real question is, “What would Jesus do if he were me—in my context—with my abilities and opportunities?” We can’t do what Jesus did—we’re not Jesus. But we can all serve the Kingdom within our contexts, as Paul did.
In Acts 16:10, Luke joins the team in Troas. He goes from describing the team as “they” to describing it as “us”. As Dr. Bruce McLarty put it this week, Luke “stepped into the picture”. He might have even become Paul’s personal doctor. Preachers, missionaries, and others often wonder, “Is this what I should be doing? Is this my calling?” That’s very natural. In joining the team, Luke accepts the calling. He’s all-in. He’s recording everything that happens. That’s how we got the book of Acts.
Paul did a lot of “pioneer evangelism”—preaching in places with no Christian community. But he also strengthened and encouraged established Christians—the motivation for this 2nd missionary venture. As one commentator put it, “Paul had the heart of both an obstetrician (bringing people into the body of Christ) and a pediatrician (growing people up in the body of Christ).”
Lesson 3: Your role in the Kingdom might involve teaching and reaching “unchurched” souls who don’t know Christ; it may involve strengthening and encouraging those who are already Christians; or it may include both.
We arrived in Neapolis (modern day Kavala) and saw the port where Paul and his team arrived on the continent. Seeing it gave me goosebumps—we were officially trailing the Apostle Paul! We also got our first glimpse of Via Egnatia, the 700-mile-long road that connected Roman colonies from modern-day Istanbul to modern-day Albania.
Paul and his companions walked from that port to the bustling city of Philippi. (We drove on a bus.) His plan was to plant churches in major cities, knowing it was easier for the gospel to spread from these cities than to these cities. Although Paul normally began his ministry in the local synagogue, Philippi didn’t have one. They must have lacked the minimum 10 adult Jewish males required for a synagogue. So, their team went to the river just north of town, and found a group of women, including Lydia, a seller of purple.
Lydia heard Paul’s message, believed it, and was baptized, along with her household. She was the first recorded convert on European soil.
Lesson 4: Note the pattern here. Lydia heard the message (Cf. Romans 10:17). She believed it (Cf. John 3:16), as the Lord opened her heart. (In John 6:44, Jesus says, “No one can come to me unless the Father who sent me draws him…”) It’s implied that she realized she needed to make some changes in her life—to change her behavior and make amends. That’s repentance (Cf. Acts 2:38). She would have openly expressed her belief in the gospel message she just heard—that’s confession (Cf. Romans 10:9). And she was immediately baptized—immersed in water (Cf. Mark 16:16). The Greek word for baptism— baptízō—means “to immerse”. As far as we know, she remained faithful until death (Cf. Revelation 2:10). After she was baptized, she invited Paul and his team to her house to stay, and they obliged. It’s important to note that her first recorded act as a brand new Christian was to show hospitality.
In Lydia’s conversion story (and in all the New Testament conversion stories), there was no recitation of a sinner’s prayer to gain salvation—asking the Lord Jesus into her heart. She was baptized—baptízō (immersed)—not sprinkled. Although her household followed suit, they independently believed, repented, etc. They couldn’t have been saved based on Lydia’s faith/actions. Each person is judged on their own accord. Since belief and repentance are part of one’s faith response, infants would not have been included in those in her household who were baptized. One cannot respond in faith to a message they are not old enough to understand.
Our group arrived in ancient Philippi and began our walking tour. The first thing to note is that Philippi, today, is just ruins. There is no “modern Philippi” thanks to 7th Century earthquakes and Slavic raids. Having been to modern Nazareth and other over-crowded ancient cities, I’m okay with that. I like seeing the original stuff. Walking the grounds, my mind went back to what the city must have been like when Paul walked through the still-visible city gate. We sang a song at the ancient theater and saw the ruins of an octagonal church, the Forum, the commercial Agora, and other relics.
The highlight for me, though, was looking into the traditional prison where Paul and Silas were imprisoned after commanding a spirit to come out of a fortune-telling, money-making slave girl. Can we be 100% certain this was where Paul and Silas were imprisoned? No. There’s no “Paul was here, AD 50” chiseled on the walls. But it’s the only prison they have found in ancient Philippi and it’s right next to the Forum—an administrative center where court was held and the judgement against Paul likely would have been handed down.
Prior to being thrown into prison, Paul and Silas were judged and beaten. The town was in an uproar because their prized slave girl could no longer make them money. I became emotional imagining the scene described in the Bible… Paul and Silas praying and singing at midnight, with other prisoners listening to them.
Lesson 5: How would you respond to being beaten and thrown into prison in a foreign city? How do you respond, generally, to the most difficult, challenging circumstances in your life? Do you blame and reject God, or pray and sing praises to Him? Anyone can be happy in pleasant circumstances, but real joy comes only from within and is a gift available to Christians at all times.
There’s an earthquake, the doors open, and the jailer, who was asleep, wakes up and is about to kill himself, knowing he was derelict in his duties. Paul stops him and tells him that they are all there. This wasn’t an opportunity for a jailbreak—it was an opportunity for Paul to teach the jailer. This may have been the same jailer who beat them hours earlier.
The hardened keeper of the prison fell down trembling. I believe he was more affected by the love and grace demonstrated by Paul and Silas than by the earthquake. He was so impressed by the love they showed to him, and from their ability to find joy even in misery, that he instantly wanted the kind of life that Paul and Silas had.
Lesson 6: You just never know how you may be a witness to others. The other prisoners heard Paul and Silas praying and singing, and the jailer wanted to know what he needed to do to be saved. This is how God wants our lives to be: Natural magnets drawing people to Him. Our Christianity should make others want what we have with God.
Paul never specifically called the keeper of the prison to repent because he was already repenting. We see the humble repentance of the jailer in that he fell down trembling, in the full idea of the word believe (pistis, which means to trust in, rely on, and cling to), and in the command to believe on the Lord Jesus Christ.
The jailer and his household believed and were baptized into Christ. As with Lydia, the jailer’s household was not saved merely because he was. Paul came and spoke the word of the Lord to him and to all who were in his house. They responded and were saved by trusting in the word of God, in Jesus who is revealed in that word, and by believing, repenting and being baptized.
The jailer who had punished them now cared for Paul and Silas by treating their wounds and giving them food. This shows how repentant he was and how he followed the example of love shown by Paul and Silas. The man was carried from suicidal fear to abounding joy in just a few minutes.
Lesson 7: Being baptized into Christ—becoming a Christian—is not the end of our faith journey but the beginning. Recognizing what Christ has done for us—dying on a cross so that we might have forgiveness of sins—we should want to serve him. One way to do that is to show hospitality to others, as both the jailer and Lydia did. As Dr. McLarty put it, the early church was founded on the gospel but also grounded in hospitality.
Even though Paul and Silas had suffered and been shamefully treated, Paul later writes an encouraging letter to the Philippians from a Roman prison. It’s full of joy, thanksgiving, and hope, along with admonishments and exhortations. In the middle of the letter, Paul states his deepest desires. He wants them 1) To know Jesus Christ; 2) To know the power of His resurrection; 3) To know the fellowship of His suffering; and 4) To be conformed to His death.
Lesson 8: We tend to like and want to align with these first two items more than the last two. Yet, Paul considered it pure joy to suffer for the cause of Christ. He wanted to one day be raised just as Christ was. We should have the same attitude and longing.
Following our tour of Philippi, we drove about a mile north to the Zygaktis River where Lydia and her household were baptized. We sang songs beside the river, took communion, and listened to Dr. McLarty share insights from the events that happened in Philippi and at this river so long ago. We then went into the nearby octagonal Greek Orthodox Church to view the mosaics, icons, and stained glass, and sing “The Greatest Command”. Although I’m not a gifted singer, even I sounded pretty good in that space, and together we sounded awesome! My friend Joe, visibly moved, looked at me and said, “Just imagine what the singing in Heaven will be like!”
From Philippi, Paul traveled about 100 miles to Thessaloniki on the Via Egnatia, with his route taking him through Amphipolis and Apollonia. As was his custom, Paul entered the synagogue and on three Sabbath days, reasoned with them from the Scriptures. He explained and proved that the Messiah (Jesus) had to suffer and rise from the dead. Some of the Jews were persuaded and joined Paul and Silas, along with a large number of God-fearing Greeks and quite a few prominent women.
Unfortunately, other Jews were jealous; so they rounded up some bad characters from the marketplace, formed a mob and started a riot in the city. A believer named Jason sheltered Paul and Silas, leading to his house being attacked by an angry mob. Jason and other believers were dragged before the city officials. They made him and the others post bond and let them go. As soon as it was night, the believers sent Paul and Silas away to Berea.
The ancient synagogue from Paul’s time is no longer standing in Thessaloniki, unfortunately. Although it survived through the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods, it was completely destroyed in the catastrophic Great Fire of 1917. In fact, nothing from Paul’s era (around 50 AD) survives above ground in Thessaloniki. The city’s ancient ruins are located beneath the modern urban sprawl. So, unlike Philippi, which has ancient ruins but no modern city, Thessaloniki has a modern, bustling city but little in the way of ancient ruins.
That doesn’t mean Thessaloniki doesn’t have much to offer. From the port, we saw beautiful views of the snow-covered, 9573-foot Mount Olympus… home of the Greek gods who, by the way, aren’t real but I’m keeping that to myself while in this country. Seeing the mountain gave me the opportunity to ask my friends what Ancient Greeks wore on their feet. Tennis Zeus.
We strolled along the waterfront and took pictures of the iconic White Tower, the city’s landmark. Built in 1535, the tower was originally surrounded by heavy walls, as it was used as a prison during the Ottoman occupation of Greece. There, many prisoners were tortured and executed, and the Tower acquired its nickname: “The Tower of Blood”, or “The Red Tower”. It was renamed “the White Tower” in 1890, after a prisoner entirely repainted it in white in exchange for his liberty.
We walked around the Ano Poli (Upper Town), where Jason’s house is traditionally believed to have been located. We learned that in 315 BC, Cassander of Macedon founded the city and named it after his wife, Thessalonike, whose father was Philip II of Macedon and whose half-brother was Alexander the Great. Thessalonica was an important port city, about a 3-day walk from Philippi, and remains a large, thriving city.
That night, the problem wasn’t figuring out how to operate the shower but how to stand up straight inside the tub. It was like balancing on a midget’s slick surfboard, barely wider than my feet, which are already at a disadvantage due to neuropathy. I asked, as they do on Mount Olympus, “Ares you serious?” The other issue is they only have half shower doors in the country. The goal seems to be getting water all over the bathroom floor. As I stepped from the midget’s surfboard to the slick runway, I nearly busted my (as Janet calls it) “patooty”. I reported this issue to the manager, who told me he would Apollo-gize later.
What an honor to be able to walk in the footsteps of Paul! The experience is even richer because I’m able to share it with 39 other Christians.
Paul’s next stop was Berea, and we’re right on his tail!
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