Sensing our group needed to get our ancient warfare fix, our guide took us by the site of the Battle of Salamis of 480 BC—the largest naval battle of the ancient world, between an alliance of Greek city-states under Themistocles and the Achaemenid Empire under King Xerxes. (Linkage to the Bible: Queen Esther was the Jewish heroine who replaced Vashti as Xerxes’ queen and famously saved her people from a planned genocide in the Persian Empire.) The Battle of Salamis resulted in a victory for the outnumbered Greeks and marked a turning point in the course of the Greco-Persian Wars. One hundred years later, Alexander the Great used the concept of revenge against Persia—specifically for the destruction wrought by Xerxes in 480 BC, which included the Battle of Salamis and the burning of Athens—as primary justification for his massive campaign.

Our first actual stop of the day was the Corinth Canal, the 4-mile long, 80.7-foot wide canal connecting the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Completed in 1893, it cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth and separates the Peloponnese peninsula from the Greek mainland. After looking straight down into the canal from the bridge, I didn’t know whether to high-give or ground my sons for bungee jumping into this abyss while studying abroad years ago. I would eat eggplant before I would do something so crazy.

Next, we paused for pictures at Diolkos, a paved trackway near Corinth which enabled boats to be moved overland across the Isthmus of Corinth, prior to the building of the canal. The shortcut enabled boats to avoid the long and dangerous circumnavigation of the Peloponnese peninsula. 

We then arrived at our main destination for the day, Ancient Corinth, where the Apostle Paul lived and established a thriving church. It is widely believed that he wrote at least three epistles from Corinth (Romans and 1 & 2 Thessalonians) and also wrote at least four letters to the church at Corinth. The timing of this visit couldn’t have been better as we’ve been involved in two Bible studies this year focused on Paul’s letters to the church at Corinth. 

Ancient Corinth is a fascinating site archaeologically, geographically, and biblically. It’s home to the legendary Jason of the Argonauts, stealer of the Golden Fleece, and was once walked by Pausanias, the 2^nd-Centry AD Greek traveler and geographer. More importantly, the Apostle Paul taught the gospel here. 

Let’s jump right into the text, Acts 18:1-3 – “After this Paul left Athens and went to Corinth. And he found a Jew named Aquila, a native of Pontus, recently come from Italy with his wife Priscilla, because Claudius had commanded all the Jews to leave Rome. And he went to see them, and because he was of the same trade he stayed with them and worked, for they were tentmakers by trade.”

In Paul’s day, Corinth was already an ancient city standing at an important crossroads of trade and travel, a la Miami or Los Angeles. It was a commercial center with two harbors and had long been a rival to its northern neighbor, Athens. It was a city with a notorious reputation for loose living and especially sexual immorality and hedonism. In classical Greek, to act like a Corinthian meant to practice fornication, and a Corinthian companion meant a prostitute. This sexual immorality was permitted under the widely popular worship of Aphrodite (also known as Venus, the goddess of fertility and sexuality).

In 146 B.C. Corinth rebelled against Rome and was brutally destroyed by Roman armies. It lay in ruins for a century, until Julius Caesar rebuilt the city. It quickly re-established its former position as a center for both trade and immorality of every sort.

Paul knew that because people from all over the Empire passed through Corinth, a strong church there could touch lives all over the Empire. He knew Corinth was a tough city, but he wasn’t only interested in planting churches where he thought it was easy. It is implied, though not clearly stated, that Aquila and Priscilla were at this time Christians. But it is possible that Paul led them both to Jesus as they worked together as tentmakers (those who worked with leather).

This began one of the important friendships of the New Testament – Paul and Aquila and his wife Priscilla. Paul called them his fellow workers who had risked their own necks for my life (Romans 16:3-4). Paul’s tentmaking was an important part of his ministry. Though he recognized his right to be supported by those he ministered to (1 Corinthians 9:7-14), he voluntarily supported himself in his missionary and preaching work so that no one could accuse him of seeking converts for the sake of enriching himself (1 Corinthians 9:15-18). In modern missions, people call any work that a missionary does to support himself on the mission field tentmaking. In Judaism it was not considered proper for a scribe or a rabbi to receive payment for his teaching, so many of them practiced a trade in addition to their study and teaching of the law.

Acts 18:4-6 – “And he reasoned in the synagogue every Sabbath, and tried to persuade Jews and Greeks. When Silas and Timothy arrived from Macedonia, Paul was occupied with the word, testifying to the Jews that the Christ was Jesus.”

Paul was effective as he reasoned (discussed, debated) among the Jews and Greeks. The Greeks present in the synagogue were Gentiles interested in and sympathetic with Judaism. Paul later described the character of his bold preaching in Corinth: “For I determined not to know anything among you except Jesus Christ and Him crucified” (1 Corinthians 2:1-16).

When Timothy came, he brought news about how the Christians in Thessalonica were remaining steadfast in the faith (1 Thessalonians 3:6-10). This brought Paul great joy, spurring him on in ministry (Paul was compelled by the Spirit). He answered back by writing 1 Thessalonians from Corinth. According to 2 Corinthians 11:8-9, while Paul was in Corinth, financial support arrived from the Christians in Philippi, and he was able to put aside tentmaking for a while and concentrate more fully on the task of building the church in Corinth.

Acts 18:6-8 – “And when they opposed and reviled him, he shook out his garments and said to them, ‘Your blood be on your own heads! I am innocent. From now on I will go to the Gentiles.’ And he left there and went to the house of a man named Titius Justus, a worshiper of God. His house was next door to the synagogue. Crispus, the ruler of the synagogue, believed in the Lord, together with his entire household. And many of the Corinthians hearing Paul believed and were baptized.” 

Paul strongly sensed his responsibility to preach to the Jews first (Romans 1:16), but when his message was rejected, he wasted no time in going to the Gentiles. (Cf. Matthew 7:6) When people are determined to reject the gospel, we shouldn’t keep trying with them until the door is open again. Even though Paul shifted his focus to Gentiles, he didn’t give up on the Jews, as evidenced by his outreach to Crispus.

Acts 18:9-11 – “And the Lord said to Paul one night in a vision, ‘Do not be afraid, but go on speaking and do not be silent, for I am with you, and no one will attack you to harm you, for I have many in this city who are my people.’ And he stayed a year and six months, teaching the word of God among them.”

The implication behind this message was that Paul was afraid, fearing that here in Corinth his work would be cut short by either opposing Jews (as in Thessalonica and Berea) or by the highly-charged worldliness around him. There had been culture shock in Athens, and now Paul experienced moral shock in Corinth. The solution to his fear was to obey Jesus’ command to not be afraid and to keep on preaching the Word! Paul’s 18-month stay in Corinth shows his heart was in ministry. He was no “in and out” evangelist, but a man committed to making disciples.

Acts 18:12-17 – “But when Gallio was proconsul of Achaia, the Jews made a united attack on Paul and brought him before the tribunal, saying, ‘This man is persuading people to worship God contrary to the law.’ But when Paul was about to open his mouth, Gallio said to the Jews, ‘If it were a matter of wrongdoing or vicious crime, O Jews, I would have reason to accept your complaint. But since it is a matter of questions about words and names and your own law, see to it yourselves. I refuse to be a judge of these things.’ And he drove them from the tribunal. And they all seized Sosthenes, the ruler of the synagogue, and beat him in front of the tribunal. But Gallio paid no attention to any of this.”

In approaching Gallio, the Jews of Corinth tried to stop Paul’s preaching work in the entire province. If Gallio had accepted the Jewish charge and found Paul guilty of the alleged offense, provincial governors everywhere would have had a precedent, and Paul’s ministry would have been severely restricted. As it was, Gallio’s refusal to act in the matter was tantamount to the recognition of Christianity as a religio licita (approved/permitted religion). His ruling helped determine how the rest of New Testament history played out.

Acts 18:18 – “After this, Paul stayed many days longer and then took leave of the brothers and set sail for Syria, and with him Priscilla and Aquila. At Cenchreae he had cut his hair, for he was under a vow. “

Unlike previous cities, Paul wasn’t forced out of Corinth. He stayed there a good while, fulfilling the promise Jesus made to him in Acts 18:9-10.

As we gathered under a shade tree at Corinth, Mike Justus shared some devotional thoughts. He began by calling our attention to “The Last Lecture”. When a professor is leaving or retiring from Carnegie Mellon University, they are encouraged to give a “last lecture”—to think deeply about what matters most to them, and then give a hypothetical “final talk”, i.e., “What wisdom would you try to impart to the world if you knew it was your last chance?” One such professor, Randy Pausch, gave his last lecture, wrote a book about it, and then died of pancreatic cancer. It was truly his last lecture.

Mike contemplated the Apostle Paul giving his “last lecture” to the people of Corinth and by extension to us. What would he say? What themes would he emphasize? He might tell them about the persecuted life he had endured. Despite that, he was content that God had given him everything he needed and would continue to do so. He might share that he is concerned about the church at Corinth (and the congregation you’re a part of). Paul might remind them that time is running out—we’re all on the clock. Perhaps he’d reaffirm that they have been sanctified by the blood of Jesus. He might tell them to be aware—on guard—and to aim for perfection. Perhaps Paul would ask them (and us) to remember who they are and whose they are. There’s no telling what Paul might say to us in a last lecture—there are so many important spiritual themes he had emphasized throughout his ministry. I’m confident he would tell us, one final time, to fight the good fight, keep the faith, and finish the race. 

We followed in his footsteps by visiting the Temple of Apollo (5^th Century BC), the Peribolos of Apollo, the huge agora (a market bounded on its southern side by the foundations of an enormous 71-column stoa (long colonnaded building)), and the ancient theater. The highlight for me was standing with our group atop the bema (also called the “tribunal” or “judicial bench”)—the elevated platform on which a judge would sit as the people brought their cases before him while standing in the plaza below. This is one of the few specific places where we can say that a certain biblical event took place. This place of judgment is where Paul was brought before Gallio, as discussed above.

After walking the grounds, we toured the site’s excellent, must-see museum. It has main rooms that contain finds from the area (including their prized pieces, two kouros statues that were stolen and retrieved). Two other rooms exhibit fine Greek and Roman statues, mosaics, figurines, and reliefs. 

Opposite the site entrance is the fairly ruinous ancient theater, constructed in the 5th century BC for up to 15,000 spectators, and the Roman odeion (indoor theater), from the 1st century AD.

As Janet and I approached the bus, we spotted Dr. McLarty descending a really long flight of stone steps to a level of ruins below the parking lot. I knew this meant he either got lost trying to find the WC or was on to something archaeologically significant. Since he was part of a cadre of people who kept my sons relatively in line during their time at Harding University, I felt obliged to follow him. If his plan was to hike to the nearest Grecian gelato vendor, I wanted in.

Instead, he led us to THE Erastus Stone! Are you kidding me! I’ve talked about this stone in various Christian Evidence courses I’ve taught, mostly to high school students, and now I was standing in front of it! The Erastus Sone (or Erastus Inscription) is a famous, first century archaeological artifact discovered in 1929. It’s highly significant in biblical history because it provides concrete, physical evidence corroborating a figure mentioned in the New Testament. Carved deep into the stone in Latin, the letters were originally filled with bronze. It reads (in English): “Erastus in return for his aedileship laid (the pavement) at his own expense.” 

Erastus was a wealthy city official who held the title aedile (commissioner of public or city treasurer). The inscription aligns perfectly with Paul’s Epistle to the Romans, where he writes, “Erastus, the city treasurer, greets you” (Romans 16:23). While it is impossible to absolutely confirm that the politician who paved the road is the exact same Erastus who traveled with Paul, the rare name, the specific title, and the geographical location provide strong circumstantial evidence for the historical reliability of the New Testament. Less historically certifiable, Aristotle once said, “If Dr. McLarty can’t lead us to gelato, may he lead us to the Erastus Stone.”

As for Corinth, it was raised to the ground by the Romans in 146 BC and then rebuilt in 44 BC. The large city became the capital of Greece in the Roman era, then declined after it was plundered in 1147. 

On our way back to Athens, we drove by Cenchra and saw the spot where Paul departed for Ephesus and where there are ruins of an early Christian 5^th century basilica. 

Before dinner that night, I went for a 2.75-mile run through the National Garden, a lush 38-acre botanical oasis located in the heart of Athens, across the street from our hotel. The maze-like park features 5,000 species of plants, trees, and vibrant flowers from all over the world, small ponds and a small zoo area, along with ancient ruins, mosaics, and busts of prominent Greek figures and poets. It was easily the most interesting city run I’ve ever done—part labyrinth and part Garden of Eden.

A final thought to close the day:

During Mike’s devotional at Ancient Corinth, he asked, “Who would God say that you are?” I thought about that during the return bus ride today. Isn’t that the most important question? If God were to describe your life—your purpose—your ministry—would He have good things to say? We seem to care so much about what the world thinks of us—what our friends and neighbors and family think of us. But what does God think us? If God gave a “last lecture” using your life as a case study, would he have material to work with? Would he say, “That guy/gal was all-in on their faith! Well done, good and faithful servant!” I hope so! Those are words we should all long to hear.

Ah, Athens! An unforgettable city where ancient history meets vibrant modern life. For many of us, Athens was the crown jewel on our Walking with Paul itinerary. It didn’t disappoint.

Don’t let the approach to Athens fool you. The major highway we came in on was congested and lined with unimpressive businesses, apartment buildings, gas stations, and other standard features of urban sprawl. The nearly hour-long traffic jam was unappealing.

We learned that approximately 70% of Athenians live in apartments. This vertical housing model—predominantly characterized by multi-story, mid-century blocks of flats known locally as polykatoikies—forms the core of the city’s dense urban footprint. Building heights in Athens are strictly limited to 5 to 7 stories to preserve the historic skyline. 

The closer we got to downtown, the better the view! Our guide pointed out various statues, landmarks, and other points of interest. Of course, the main attraction is the Acropolis, an elevated mound full of ancient monuments and structures just begging to have their picture taken! We checked into the lovely Amalia Hotel at the center of all things worth doing in Athens and immediately ate dinner… because that’s what we do.

We shared a chicken, beef, and lamb sampler platter on pita bread in the upstairs of a restaurant in the heart of downtown. We were blessed to be joined by Rusty and Karen Andrews, who are from the St. Louis area but do three months of mission work in Athens annually. I preached a couple of times for Rusty in Granite City, Illinois last month, which was facilitated by our mutual friend, Steve Awtrey. It was good getting to know them and learning about their efforts to grow the Kingdom in this part of the world. 

Just down from our hotel, we watched the Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The meticulously synchronized routine takes place every hour on the hour, 365 days/year, in front of the Hellenic Parliament at Syntagma Square. A more elaborate, hour-long version, featuring a marching platoon in full-dress uniforms accompanied by a full military band, occurs every Sunday at 11:00 a.m. The guards are a ceremonial elite light infantry unit of the Hellenic Army, wearing highly detailed traditional uniforms—each element having a specific meaning.

After sunset, we strolled down the popular, bustling Ermou Street—the 15^th most expensive shopping district in the world. This famous pedestrian-only avenue stretches from Syntagma Square to Monastiraki Square and serves as the city’s primary hub for international clothing, endless shoe stores, high-street fashion brands, local Greek boutiques, and high-end restaurants. While Ermou Street is the main artery, there are inviting feeder streets in both directions with additional shops and cafes, some on cobblestone streets with centuries-old trees emerging from holes in the cobblestone.   

Half-way down Ermou Street, we came to the 11^th Century Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, one of the oldest continuously operated churches in Athens. Inspired by the man singing and playing “Just the Two of Us” in front of the church, our friends Joe and Jan broke out in a lovely dance that Aphrodite would approve of (if she were real). At the western end of Ermou Street, we came to the Kerameikos Archaelogical Site, ancient Athens’ primary cemetery, which was continuously used from the 9^th century BC through the Roman period.

Following breakfast the next morning, we headed for the Acropolis, a large archaeological complex consisting of several important ancient buildings and temples. I won’t cover all of them, but the most famous is the Parthenon, a 5^th Century BC temple dedicated to the goddess Athena and the city’s most notable landmark. Fun fact: An exact, full-size replica of the original temple in Athens is located in Nashville’s Centennial Park. It was built for the 1897 Tennessee Centennial Exposition. Even more fun fact: In the Spring of 1987, on a blanket in the shadows of Nashville’s Parthenon, I proposed to Janet, and she said Yes! As of this past March 25^th, we’ve been married 38 years!

Atop the Acropolis, we admired the Parthenon (much larger than I remember it being), the Temple of Athena Nike, the Odeon of Herodes, and many other impressive structures. I will not attempt to describe the significance of each, as that would be more book than blog. Suffice it to say I’ve been to 50 states and 30 foreign countries, and the ruins of the Acropolis rank right up there with the Roman Coliseum and the ruins of Pompeii.

According to Acts 17, Paul’s spirit was provoked when he saw that Athens was full of idols. The sense is that Paul would have preferred to wait until Timothy and Silas came from Berea before he began his ministry in Athens. But when he saw that the city was given over to idols, he was compelled to preach the gospel immediately. The idea behind given over to idols (kateidolos) is really under idols, or swamped by idols. Paul saw the beauty of Athens, having the best that Greek sculptors and architects could offer; but all that beauty did not honor God, so it did not impress him at all.

So, he reasoned with Jews and others in the synagogue and with various people in the marketplace. Paul faced a challenging audience in Athens. It was a cultured, educated city that was proud of its history. It was an intellectual center, much like Oxford or Cambridge. Paul spoke to a city perhaps different than any other city he had preached in. The Epicurean and Stoic philosophers called him a babbler and a preacher of foreign divinities, because Paul preached Jesus and the resurrection. The Epicureans pursued pleasure as the chief purpose in life, and valued most of all the pleasure of a peaceful life, free from pain, disturbing passions and superstitious fears (including the fear of death). They did not deny the existence of gods but believed that they had nothing to do with man.

The Stoics were pantheists who put great emphasis on moral sincerity and a high sense of duty. They cultivated a spirit of proud dignity and believed that suicide was better than a life lived with less dignity. The Stoics believed that everything was god, and god was in everything. So they believed that all things, good or evil, were from “god,” and so nothing should be resisted, and they believed there was no particular direction or destiny for mankind.

They brought Paul to the Areopagus (Supreme Court) at Mars Hill to get clarification on his new teaching which was strange to their ears. He boldly stood before them and preached an all-time great sermon—I invite you to read it now at Acts 17:22-31.

Following in Paul’s footsteps, our next stop was nearby Mars Hill. Dr. McLarty stood not far from where Paul would have stood to present a devotional message. He provided context and meaning to Paul’s time on Mars Hill two centuries ago. Among several great points, a few stand out:

Lesson 1: Adjust your message to fit your audience. Paul met the audience where they were in order to connect with them. He recognized that they were religious but had directed that energy toward worshipping idols, including “an unknown god”. Calling them “religious” was not necessarily a compliment. Religion can lead one away from God, and if we trust in a false religion, it is little credit to say of us that we are “religious.” Paul started where they were and told them about the God of heaven—the God who made everything… the God who allows us to live and move and have our being. This concept would have been totally foreign to them.

Who is your audience? Who are you trying to reach? You may need to start with a passage they’re studying, or a religious hangup they have, or perhaps somewhere else. Connect with them where they are and develop the conversation from there.

Lesson 2: Jesus’ resurrection is decisive—everything hinges on it. Though Paul spoke in a different place, to a different kind of audience, his message did not change in Athens. He focused on Jesus and the resurrection. Some accepted Paul’s message while others mocked him for talking about resurrection. The resurrection calls for a decision.

I like the way Tim Keller put it: “If Jesus rose from the dead, then you have to accept all that he said; if he didn’t rise from the dead, then why worry about any of what he said? The issue on which everything hangs is not whether or not you like his teaching but whether or not he rose from the dead.”

Lesson 3: Don’t underestimate the long-term impact of your Kingdom work, even if it appears to be unsuccessful in the short term. This may have been a low point for Paul. He was frustrated by all the idol worship in Athens, and he didn’t seem to be having much of an impact. But here we are, two thousand years later, still studying and reflecting on what Paul had to say. We also know a few of those listening were converted, including Dionysius and a woman name Damaris—don’t tell them Paul wasn’t successful. We traveled all the way to Mars Hill, and we celebrated, because Paul had the guts to stand up and talk about the resurrection of Jesus.

After singing In Christ Alone, several of us climbed Mars Hill and, for the second time on this trip, I got emotional. This is where it happened! This is where Paul did his thing! What an honor and privilege to be standing on this hill! I’ll never forget those few moments, nor will I forget how slippery the boulders are up there.

After taking several pictures and reflecting on the significance of Mars Hill, Janet was ready to go, so she affectionately patted me on the behind. Except that it wasn’t me—it was a random stranger! She turned beet red and said, “I’m so sorry. I thought you were my husband!” He replied, in a thick Russian accent, “You vant do coffee?” I admonished my wife for attempting to pat my behind on the sacred mound where the Apostle Paul taught. Going forward, should Janet ever violate your personal space or commit even the slightest social faux pas, let me encourage you to approach her, in all gentleness, and whisper, “Remember Mars Hill”.

From there, we visited the Agora, now in ruins, which was formerly the commercial hub of ancient Athens and the birthplace of politics and philosophy. It was here that Paul reasoned with the most skeptical audience he met in the course of his travels. It was also here that Socrates engaged in intellectual debate. We saw the Doric Temple of Hephaestus and the Stoa of Attalos, a former retail market (“stoa” is where we get the word store), which is today a museum.

That evening, my buddy Joe and I returned to Ermou Street, in search of a few gifts and lemon gelato, which was delicious. Janet was looking for a child’s golden princess crown as a gift and I found one being sold by a street vendor. I told the man I was interested and he said, “You follow me upstairs.” He led us to a nearby door, which he unlocked, and instructed us to go up the winding staircase to Narnia. There wasn’t a soul in sight. Joe looked at me like “What are you getting us into?” I told him this is how human trafficking begins. Thankfully, at the top of the stairs was a small jewelry store and we were able to make our purchase and escape out the front door unscathed.

Athens, the “cradle of western civilization,” lived up to the hype. Few places are believed to have been continuously inhabited since about 5000 BC, with a recorded history (of the Mycenaean civilization) dating to 1400 BC. 

I’m thankful these ruins are still around for us to learn about the people who lived here so long ago. And I’m thankful to the Apostle Paul who had the guts to stand before an unfamiliar, idol worshipping, mostly dismissive crowd and courageously preach the truth! Paul didn’t preach a “soft” gospel. Rather, he boldly confronted the wrong ideas the Athenians had about God and challenged them with the reality of the coming judgment.

May we all be so bold!

On our way to Delphi, we passed through the town of Marathon. In 490 BC, the Greek messenger Pheidippides ran about 26 miles from Marathon to Athens to announce the Athenian victory against the Persians at the Battle of Marathon. After receiving high fives from officials who feared that a defeat would lead to a devastating invasion, he shouted, “We have won!”, then collapsed and died. (In the Marine Corps and Disney World marathons of 2007 and 2014, respectively, I too collapsed at the finish line but didn’t die.)

Our journey took us up, over, and around several 8000+-foot, spectacular, towering massifs that define the landscape of Central Greece. The famous Delphi olive grove, containing approximately 1.2 to 1.5 million olive trees spanning 23 square miles, is one of the oldest and largest continuous olive groves in the Balkans. Roughly 70% of the trees at the UNESCO-protected landscape are over 150 years old, with some reaching up to 300 to 2,000 years of age. Olive cultivation here dates back thousands of years, and a traditional trail still passes through the grove, tracing the footsteps of ancient pilgrims making their way to the Oracle of Delphi. 

Speaking of footsteps, as we rolled into Delphi, my Garmin watch had us at 53.9 total miles walked over 7 days! You don’t have to be able to run a marathon to go on one of these trips, but I highly recommend being in good walking shape.

The view from our hotel room in Delphi was heavenly. On the horizon to the left, the Gulf of Corinth. To the right, olive groves covered the landscape up to the base of mountains I’d like a crack at. Closer in, an inviting hotel pool, just begging a group of 40 senior citizens with dusty feet and knobby knees to take the plunge. We did not, as our default core value is always—always—more food! So we ate!

That evening, we strolled up and down the streets of picturesque downtown Delphi, at the foot of Mt. Parnassus, featuring outdoor cafes, boutiques, and shopping. So far, this was my favorite town we’ve visited—great vibe, friendly people.

So why are we in Delphi? The Ancient Greeks believed that Delphi was the Navel of the Earth, a place seen as a spiritual focal point for all Greeks. It earned that designation, according to myths, when Zeus, the sky and thunder god, sent two eagles from opposite ends of the earth and they met in what is now Delphi. The site included many sanctuaries and the most prestigious oracle in all of ancient Greece. They believed this is where Pythia, the high priestess, uttered the prophetic advice of the god Apollo to mortals who travelled from across the world. Apart from Greeks, the Oracle was visited also by foreign leaders and dignitaries who were anxious to know the will of Apollo on important state affairs.

The first stop on our morning tour was the Gymnasium at Delphi, an ancient Greek athletic and educational complex constructed in the 4th century BC. It featured a multi-terraced layout designed for physical training, including a covered xystos for running, a palaestra for combat sports like wrestling and boxing, and bathing facilities fed by the sacred Castalian waters. It is considered one of the most complete surviving examples of a classical gymnasium. Originally dedicated to preparing athletes for the Pythian Games—a major festival honoring Apollo—the facility evolved over time.

Our tour took an awkward turn when our guide told us gymnasium originates from the Ancient Greek word gymnós, which means “naked” or “nude”. Yes, in Ancient Greece, athletes trained and competed in the nude, leading to the verb gymnázein, meaning “to exercise or train naked”. Of the many directions I could go with this paragraph, please consider which Olympic event you’d least like to compete in sans clothes. For me, it would be the 400 meter hurdles. Let’s move on.

Our guide led us up the hill to see the Temple of Apollo (the core of the sanctuary where the priestess Pythia delivered prophecies), the Athenian Treasury (a beautifully reconstructed building that housed offerings from the city of Athens), and the Stadium, located at the highest point of the sanctuary. Joe and I attempted to enter the Pythian Games but were disqualified for not running gymnasium-style. We finished with a stroll through the Archaeology Museum which housed spectacular finds like the famous Bronze Charioteer and the Naxian Sphinx.

Allow me to pause here and ascend to my high horse. As incredibly impressive as the Oracle of Delphi ruins are, it needs to be said that what happened here wasn’t true or rooted in reality. There is no real god Apollo. No supernatural utterances occurred here. The Oracle spoke in general terms that were open to interpretation. Her prophecies were legendary for being incredibly vague. It would be like a fortune teller telling you, “Something bad will happen to you this month. You will be unhappy.” Good chance she’ll be right! So, it’s mind-boggling to me that hundreds of thousands of people, over more than a thousand years, paid fortunes to consult with women who were “prophesying” (in this case, uttering nonsense) on behalf of a false, non-existent god (like every other character in Greek mythology). Today, it would be like spending your life savings in order to watch The View.

There is truth—there are absolute facts. Not my truth. Not your truth. Just truth. You’ll find truth on the pages of the Bible, and rooted in the life, death, and resurrection of Jesus Christ. In John 14:6, Jesus said, “I am the way, and the truth, and the life. No one comes to the Father except through me.” If you want prophecies, read the prophecies in the Bible. They have come true and will continue to come true. Many are very specific. If you are concerned about the future and need discernment over which path to take, don’t go to Delphi to chat with an oracle. Don’t consult fortune tellers or read daily horoscopes. Instead, talk to God—pray. Read your Bible. Everything you need is right there! That’s the truth!

After departing Athens the following morning, we stopped at a gas station for a break. The gas stations in Greece aren’t as big as Buc-ee’s, nor are the bathrooms as nice. (As I recall, 100% of Buc-ee’s commodes have golden toilet seats.) But the Grecian gas stations always deliver something special—handmade almond & honey Baklava, spice mix for roasted lamb, jasmine olive oil soap, an assortment of packaged olives, or perhaps a peacock farm out back. At today’s stop, I paid 2 Euros for a 5-minute, full-body rejuvenating chair massage! I never wanted it to end. In fact, I came close to telling the group, “You all go on. I’ll catch up with you tomorrow. I want to drop another 24 Euros for an hour-long massage, while sipping an Americano.”

Instead, I got back on the bus.

Because that’s what we do. 

We eat. 

We look at old stuff. 

Then we get back on the bus.

Next stop: Athens. I hear there’s some good stuff there. We shall see!

We continue our journey in Acts 17 with Paul and Silas departing Thessaloniki by night due to the uprising against them. They walked about 50 miles over a few days to Berea, modern-day Veria. As was typical, their first stop was the Jewish synagogue. The Jews in Berea are described as more noble than those in Thessaloniki. How so? They received the word with all eagerness, examining the Scriptures daily to see if these things were so. Many of them believed, including a few prominent Greek women and some men. 

Lesson 1: We should receive God’s Word with eagerness. I appreciate Christians who claim to love God’s Word and then back that up by making Bible class a priority. Rather than say they’re too tired, too busy, or that Bible class is not mandatory, they just go. Same with the Bereans—they were eager to study Scripture. 

Lesson 2: We, too, should examine the Scriptures daily to ensure the preaching/teaching that we hear is true. We shouldn’t rely on our local preacher to do our Bible studying for us.

Unfortunately, trouble seemed to follow Paul wherever he went. When the Jews from Thessaloniki learned that the word of God was being proclaimed by Paul at Berea, they went there, agitating and stirring up the crowds. The Brothers immediately sent Paul off on his way to the sea, but Silas and Timothy remained behind. 

Lesson 3: When you proclaim God’s Word in any context, expect either hostility, persecution, or indifference. People generally want to call their own shots in life and not be limited in any way by God’s Word. When you put yourself out there as a Christian, and speak biblical truths, expect pushback, even hatred, just like many hated Jesus.  

I know I’m beginning to sound like a broken record, but Berea is yet another beautiful city on our tour—Greece’s “Little Jerusalem”. Our first stop was in the center of town, near the Clock Square, at a place called the “Step of Apostle Paul”. The Bema (podium) of Paul is a significant historical site where scholars believe Paul preached. The original 1st-century steps where the Apostle stood, taken from the 1^st Century synagogue, are preserved there.

Following in Paul’s footsteps, our very own Brett Watson shared some devotional thoughts. He mentioned how power and wealth tend to go hand in hand. Alexander the Great, like other world leaders, was all about conquering nations, gaining power, and accumulating wealth. In Ancient Greece, the lion statue, which we’ve encountered in a number of places on our journey, symbolized power, authority, and divine protection. As we’ve already seen on this trip, whoever was in power controlled the treasury and could even determine whether a building would be a mosque or a church. The reason the Jews in Thessaloniki ran Paul and Silas out of town was because they were afraid of them—the men threatened their power and thus their wealth.

Jesus offered a sharp contrast—a wildly different approach. He was born in a manger to a peasant woman and lived in obscurity for 30 years. He never owned a home, held office, went to college, or traveled to a big city. He came not as a lion but as a sacrificial lamb. He threw all convention aside. 

Brett wondered if Paul might have asked the assembled Bereans, “Where is your King Philip II? Where is your Alexander the Great? They’re dead in a tomb. But not Jesus. He arose. He still reigns today. True power lies not in earthly treasures or material wealth but in humbling yourself so that you one day may be exalted. 

In Romans 1:16, Paul writes, “For I am not ashamed of the gospel, for it is the power of God for salvation to everyone who believes, to the Jew first and also to the Greek.” The people in Berea, like the people in your town and mine, needed to know that their kings and leaders and other wealthy, elite members of society were all destined for the grave. In contrast, our King—Jesus Christ—reigns forever. 

Lesson 4: True power comes from accepting the gospel message, responding in obedience to it, and humbly serving those around you. That’s the path to one day being lifted up. In short, the story of God’s redemptive power is not just for the wealthy but for everyone! 

On our break, I secured yet another Americano and sat down on a bench next to an elderly woman with a dog. I said, “Hello, how are you?” She replied, “Guten tag.” Ah, a German! Having spent more than five years of my life in Germany, I was excited to converse with a German woman in Berea. In my thickest German accident, I said, in English, “Do you live in Berea?” She pointed to her dog and answered, “Jenny”. I smiled, petted her dog, and that was the end of our cultural exchange.

On November 8, 1977, Dr. Manolis Andronikos made his greatest archaeological discovery when he found a cluster of royal tombs in the modern city of Vergina, which was ancient Aigai, the original capital of Macedonia. One of those tombs belonged to Philip II of Macedon, the father of Alexander the Great. Philip II was assassinated by one of his bodyguards in the theater at Aigai in 336 BC. His tomb contained considerable bling, which, along with his remains, lie in the Museum of Royal Tombs in Aigai (Vergina). Our group toured the museum, saw the tombs of Philip II and others, and marveled at the various items of gold, silver, bronze, and ivory.

While I enjoy looking at ancient tombs and other historical relics, I always come back to, “So what? Why should I care about Philip II, Alexander the Great, or any other dead kings? What’s the significance for me—especially for my faith?”

Lesson 5: Kenneth Mills answers those questions this way… “When Alexander the Great was spreading Greek culture, customs, and language, he did so to broaden his kingdom and for self-glory. Depending on the source, he named somewhere between 20 and 70 cities after himself… Although he was conquering Greece for himself, what he achieved served to advance another kingdom—the Kingdom of God… At the time of the birth of Jesus, the Greek language was common throughout much of the world. The New Testament was written in Greek. People could read the word of God.”

At this point in Paul’s journey, he sailed to Athens, but we continued by bus toward Delphi. Along the way, our guide pointed out that we were driving by Thermopylae, and that got me pretty stoked. In 480 BC, at the Battle of Thermopylae, King Leonidas and his 300 Spartans, alongside other Greeks, made a famous last stand against Xerxes’ massive Persian army, delaying them. I wanted to interrupt our guide, stand up on the bus, and shout, “Spartans! Prepare for glory!” but thought better of it. 

Later, we stopped at a gas station that was raising a dozen peacocks out back—I kid you not. It also had a commode with no seat—just the rim. I was more excited about the peacocks—likely descendants of peacocks that were bred and eaten during the nearby Battle of Thermopylae—than I was about the rimless toilet seats, which require a level of flexibility I have not reached.

Final observation: I apparently need a lot of help to get through the daily grind of life. My dear wife, Janet, instructs me on matters ranging from chewing too loudly, to having leftover toothpaste on my mouth, to how to drive (turning, braking, etc.)… I call her “my little helper”.

On this trip, Janet’s direction is not enough. Our guide gave us handsets–“whisperers”–where she gives me instructions on when to go, when to stop, what relics not to touch, what to pay attention to, etc. She’s my second “little helper,” instructing me throughout the day.

Still, that is apparently not enough. So, our next stop is the Oracle of Delphi on the slopes of Mount Parnassus where, for well over a millenium, women… oracles… little helpers… gave advice and told fortunes on matters big and small, on behalf of Apollo.

If the combination of spouse, whisperer, and oracle can’t keep me in line–can’t help me not chew my food so loudly–there’s no hope for me!

Onward…

I write this on Monday, June 1^st, late afternoon and evening, having consumed a double Expresso, two Americanos, a regular coffee, and three Cola Lights today. I’m amped.

Before returning to Paul’s 2^nd missionary journey, some general observations and facts about Greece:

• The country is every bit as beautiful as I had hoped it would be. It’s no wonder over 33 million people visit Greece annually—more than three times its population. As my friend Joe reminded us, “Greece is the word.”
• Greece is one of the world’s sunniest countries, with an average of 250 sunny days per year. Some of its islands are sunny an average of 300 days. I guess you could say it gets its Cher of Sonny.
• Greece is overwhelmingly religious, with approximately 81% to 90% of the population adhering to the Eastern Orthodox Church, the constitutionally recognized prevailing religion. The rest of the population consists of smaller communities, including Muslims, Roman Catholics, Protestants, and unaffiliated or secular individuals. There are mosques here, although I’ve yet to see one.
• There are 6000 islands in Greece but people live on only around 200 of them.
• 80% of Greece is made up of mountains.
• Athens has more theaters than any other city in the world, and Greece has more archaeological museums than any other country.

Friends, nothing can substitute for standing and walking in the world of the events of the Bible. These trips flesh out the New Testament in ways that add color, texture, smells, and sights—which place the world on a mental map and make it alive and vibrant. If you ever have the opportunity to explore the Bible lands, I encourage you to do so.

Paul went from being someone who zealously persecuted Christians to one who passionately proclaimed the gospel of Jesus Christ. That leads to our first take-away…

Lesson 1: As I often tell the prisoners I minister to, no matter your past, no matter how messed up your life may be, don’t think for a moment God can’t redeem your story and use you to grow His Kingdom. God had a plan for Paul and He has a plan for you.

Continuing Paul’s story… he received direction to go westward across the Aegean Sea to the region of Macedonia, moving the team from the continent of Asia to the continent of Europe. God’s plan for Paul was not to reach a few cities in his region but to win an entire continent for Christ.

There was no hesitation. A strong, godly man led a strong, godly team. Today, God still calls people to the mission field, ranging from your family to your neighborhood to perhaps some far away places. 

Lesson 2: How will you respond to God’s call? As one preacher recently put it, our mission isn’t to do what Jesus did—that’s impossible. The real question is, “What would Jesus do if he were me—in my context—with my abilities and opportunities?” We can’t do what Jesus did—we’re not Jesus. But we can all serve the Kingdom within our contexts, as Paul did.

In Acts 16:10, Luke joins the team in Troas. He goes from describing the team as “they” to describing it as “us”. As Dr. Bruce McLarty put it this week, Luke “stepped into the picture”. He might have even become Paul’s personal doctor. Preachers, missionaries, and others often wonder, “Is this what I should be doing? Is this my calling?” That’s very natural. In joining the team, Luke accepts the calling. He’s all-in. He’s recording everything that happens. That’s how we got the book of Acts.

Paul did a lot of “pioneer evangelism”—preaching in places with no Christian community. But he also strengthened and encouraged established Christians—the motivation for this 2^nd missionary venture. As one commentator put it, “Paul had the heart of both an obstetrician (bringing people into the body of Christ) and a pediatrician (growing people up in the body of Christ).” 

Lesson 3: Your role in the Kingdom might involve teaching and reaching “unchurched” souls who don’t know Christ; it may involve strengthening and encouraging those who are already Christians; or it may include both. 

We arrived in Neapolis (modern day Kavala) and saw the port where Paul and his team arrived on the continent. Seeing it gave me goosebumps—we were officially trailing the Apostle Paul! We also got our first glimpse of Via Egnatia, the 700-mile-long road that connected Roman colonies from modern-day Istanbul to modern-day Albania. 

Paul and his companions walked from that port to the bustling city of Philippi. (We drove on a bus.) His plan was to plant churches in major cities, knowing it was easier for the gospel to spread from these cities than to these cities. Although Paul normally began his ministry in the local synagogue, Philippi didn’t have one. They must have lacked the minimum 10 adult Jewish males required for a synagogue. So, their team went to the river just north of town, and found a group of women, including Lydia, a seller of purple. 

Lydia heard Paul’s message, believed it, and was baptized, along with her household. She was the first recorded convert on European soil. 

Lesson 4: Note the pattern here. Lydia heard the message (Cf. Romans 10:17). She believed it (Cf. John 3:16), as the Lord opened her heart. (In John 6:44, Jesus says, “No one can come to me unless the Father who sent me draws him…”) It’s implied that she realized she needed to make some changes in her life—to change her behavior and make amends. That’s repentance (Cf. Acts 2:38). She would have openly expressed her belief in the gospel message she just heard—that’s confession (Cf. Romans 10:9). And she was immediately baptized—immersed in water (Cf. Mark 16:16). The Greek word for baptism— baptízō—means “to immerse”. As far as we know, she remained faithful until death (Cf. Revelation 2:10). After she was baptized, she invited Paul and his team to her house to stay, and they obliged. It’s important to note that her first recorded act as a brand new Christian was to show hospitality.

In Lydia’s conversion story (and in all the New Testament conversion stories), there was no recitation of a sinner’s prayer to gain salvation—asking the Lord Jesus into her heart. She was baptized—baptízō (immersed)—not sprinkled. Although her household followed suit, they independently believed, repented, etc. They couldn’t have been saved based on Lydia’s faith/actions. Each person is judged on their own accord. Since belief and repentance are part of one’s faith response, infants would not have been included in those in her household who were baptized. One cannot respond in faith to a message they are not old enough to understand. 

Our group arrived in ancient Philippi and began our walking tour. The first thing to note is that Philippi, today, is just ruins. There is no “modern Philippi” thanks to 7^th Century earthquakes and Slavic raids. Having been to modern Nazareth and other over-crowded ancient cities, I’m okay with that. I like seeing the original stuff. Walking the grounds, my mind went back to what the city must have been like when Paul walked through the still-visible city gate. We sang a song at the ancient theater and saw the ruins of an octagonal church, the Forum, the commercial Agora, and other relics.

The highlight for me, though, was looking into the traditional prison where Paul and Silas were imprisoned after commanding a spirit to come out of a fortune-telling, money-making slave girl. Can we be 100% certain this was where Paul and Silas were imprisoned? No. There’s no “Paul was here, AD 50” chiseled on the walls. But it’s the only prison they have found in ancient Philippi and it’s right next to the Forum—an administrative center where court was held and the judgement against Paul likely would have been handed down.

Prior to being thrown into prison, Paul and Silas were judged and beaten. The town was in an uproar because their prized slave girl could no longer make them money. I became emotional imagining the scene described in the Bible… Paul and Silas praying and singing at midnight, with other prisoners listening to them.

Lesson 5: How would you respond to being beaten and thrown into prison in a foreign city? How do you respond, generally, to the most difficult, challenging circumstances in your life? Do you blame and reject God, or pray and sing praises to Him? Anyone can be happy in pleasant circumstances, but real joy comes only from within and is a gift available to Christians at all times. 

There’s an earthquake, the doors open, and the jailer, who was asleep, wakes up and is about to kill himself, knowing he was derelict in his duties. Paul stops him and tells him that they are all there. This wasn’t an opportunity for a jailbreak—it was an opportunity for Paul to teach the jailer. This may have been the same jailer who beat them hours earlier.

The hardened keeper of the prison fell down trembling. I believe he was more affected by the love and grace demonstrated by Paul and Silas than by the earthquake. He was so impressed by the love they showed to him, and from their ability to find joy even in misery, that he instantly wanted the kind of life that Paul and Silas had.

Lesson 6: You just never know how you may be a witness to others. The other prisoners heard Paul and Silas praying and singing, and the jailer wanted to know what he needed to do to be saved. This is how God wants our lives to be: Natural magnets drawing people to Him. Our Christianity should make others want what we have with God. 

Paul never specifically called the keeper of the prison to repent because he was already repenting. We see the humble repentance of the jailer in that he fell down trembling, in the full idea of the word believe (pistis, which means to trust in, rely on, and cling to), and in the command to believe on the Lord Jesus Christ.

The jailer and his household believed and were baptized into Christ. As with Lydia, the jailer’s household was not saved merely because he was. Paul came and spoke the word of the Lord to him and to all who were in his house. They responded and were saved by trusting in the word of God, in Jesus who is revealed in that word, and by believing, repenting and being baptized. 

The jailer who had punished them now cared for Paul and Silas by treating their wounds and giving them food. This shows how repentant he was and how he followed the example of love shown by Paul and Silas. The man was carried from suicidal fear to abounding joy in just a few minutes. 

Lesson 7:  Being baptized into Christ—becoming a Christian—is not the end of our faith journey but the beginning. Recognizing what Christ has done for us—dying on a cross so that we might have forgiveness of sins—we should want to serve him. One way to do that is to show hospitality to others, as both the jailer and Lydia did. As Dr. McLarty put it, the early church was founded on the gospel but also grounded in hospitality.

Even though Paul and Silas had suffered and been shamefully treated, Paul later writes an encouraging letter to the Philippians from a Roman prison. It’s full of joy, thanksgiving, and hope, along with admonishments and exhortations. In the middle of the letter, Paul states his deepest desires. He wants them 1) To know Jesus Christ; 2) To know the power of His resurrection; 3) To know the fellowship of His suffering; and 4) To be conformed to His death. 

Lesson 8: We tend to like and want to align with these first two items more than the last two. Yet, Paul considered it pure joy to suffer for the cause of Christ. He wanted to one day be raised just as Christ was. We should have the same attitude and longing.

Following our tour of Philippi, we drove about a mile north to the Zygaktis River where Lydia and her household were baptized. We sang songs beside the river, took communion, and listened to Dr. McLarty share insights from the events that happened in Philippi and at this river so long ago. We then went into the nearby octagonal Greek Orthodox Church to view the mosaics, icons, and stained glass, and sing “The Greatest Command”.  Although I’m not a gifted singer, even I sounded pretty good in that space, and together we sounded awesome! My friend Joe, visibly moved, looked at me and said, “Just imagine what the singing in Heaven will be like!”

From Philippi, Paul traveled about 100 miles to Thessaloniki on the Via Egnatia, with his route taking him through Amphipolis and Apollonia. As was his custom, Paul entered the synagogue and on three Sabbath days, reasoned with them from the Scriptures. He explained and proved that the Messiah (Jesus) had to suffer and rise from the dead. Some of the Jews were persuaded and joined Paul and Silas, along with a large number of God-fearing Greeks and quite a few prominent women.

Unfortunately, other Jews were jealous; so they rounded up some bad characters from the marketplace, formed a mob and started a riot in the city. A believer named Jason sheltered Paul and Silas, leading to his house being attacked by an angry mob.  Jason and other believers were dragged before the city officials. They made him and the others post bond and let them go. As soon as it was night, the believers sent Paul and Silas away to Berea.

The ancient synagogue from Paul’s time is no longer standing in Thessaloniki, unfortunately. Although it survived through the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods, it was completely destroyed in the catastrophic Great Fire of 1917. In fact, nothing from Paul’s era (around 50 AD) survives above ground in Thessaloniki. The city’s ancient ruins are located beneath the modern urban sprawl. So, unlike Philippi, which has ancient ruins but no modern city, Thessaloniki has a modern, bustling city but little in the way of ancient ruins.

That doesn’t mean Thessaloniki doesn’t have much to offer. From the port, we saw beautiful views of the snow-covered, 9573-foot Mount Olympus… home of the Greek gods who, by the way, aren’t real but I’m keeping that to myself while in this country. Seeing the mountain gave me the opportunity to ask my friends what Ancient Greeks wore on their feet. Tennis Zeus. 

We strolled along the waterfront and took pictures of the iconic White Tower, the city’s landmark. Built in 1535, the tower was originally surrounded by heavy walls, as it was used as a prison during the Ottoman occupation of Greece. There, many prisoners were tortured and executed, and the Tower acquired its nickname: “The Tower of Blood”, or “The Red Tower”. It was renamed “the White Tower” in 1890, after a prisoner entirely repainted it in white in exchange for his liberty. 

We walked around the Ano Poli (Upper Town), where Jason’s house is traditionally believed to have been located. We learned that in 315 BC, Cassander of Macedon founded the city and named it after his wife, Thessalonike, whose father was Philip II of Macedon and whose half-brother was Alexander the Great. Thessalonica was an important port city, about a 3-day walk from Philippi, and remains a large, thriving city.

That night, the problem wasn’t figuring out how to operate the shower but how to stand up straight inside the tub. It was like balancing on a midget’s slick surfboard, barely wider than my feet, which are already at a disadvantage due to neuropathy. I asked, as they do on Mount Olympus, “Ares you serious?” The other issue is they only have half shower doors in the country. The goal seems to be getting water all over the bathroom floor. As I stepped from the midget’s surfboard to the slick runway, I nearly busted my (as Janet calls it) “patooty”. I reported this issue to the manager, who told me he would Apollo-gize later.

What an honor to be able to walk in the footsteps of Paul! The experience is even richer because I’m able to share it with 39 other Christians.

Paul’s next stop was Berea, and we’re right on his tail!

Showering in a foreign country shouldn’t be difficult. There are readily available shower fixtures that require a single pull and twist. The good folks at the Sheraton Atakoy Hotel in Istanbul are not aware of this. One lever toggles between the upper shower head and the lower, hand-held variety. Another lever directly in front of that one adjusts the output of water. A third unmarked lever sets the temperature for the shower. A fourth lever plugs and unplugs the tub. On our first night, we were unable to break the code on simply filling the tub with water, so we had to sit on the hand-held shower head which can be painful and may void the warranty. If you become frustrated, as I did, and turn all four levers at once, the bidet at the nearby commode blasts water on your unsuspecting spouse, who shouldn’t be sitting there while you’re showering anyway.

After surviving three blasts to the face in the trial-and-error shower, I accompanied my bride to the dining room for the first of what I believe will be 12 days of incredible meals. We had salad, roast beef on a bed of sweet potato puree, broccoli, and cheesecake with raspberry sauce, white chocolate, and a biscotti. The following morning, our breakfast options included a custom omelet bar, a bread bar, a cheese and meat bar, a 20-ingredient granola station, a coffee bar, six canisters of hot food, and an assortment of juices. I knew we were in for a treat when I realized I could carve a section out of a real honeycomb.

What do we know about Istanbul?

• Home to 16 million people, making it the largest city in Turkey and the 18^th largest city in the world. 
• It sits on two continents—about 2/3 of the population live in Europe and 1/3 in Asia.
• It is in the Top 5 of most visited cities in the world. 
• It straddles the Bosphurus—one of the world’s busiest waterways—between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. 
• It’s considered one of the most significant cities in history, having served as the capital of 4 different empires.
• It was instrumental in the advancement of Christianity during Roman and Byzantine times, before the Ottomans conquered the city in 1453 and transformed it into an Islamic stronghold and the seat of the last caliphate. 
• It sits on the North Anatolian Fault and is highly vulnerable to earthquakes.

By the way, in case you didn’t get the memo, Turkey changed its official international name to Türkiye (“TUR-kee-yay”) to better reflect the country’s cultural roots and to distance itself from the English word “turkey” (the bird) and its slang definition for failure. This would be like if you were from Loser, Louisiana and the city council changed the name to Loser-Yay to make it sound better.  

Istanbul has been featured in many movies, including:

• Skyfall (2012) – Features a high-speed motorcycle chase across the rooftops of the Grand Bazaar and a thrilling opening sequence on the Varda Viaduct.
• Argo (2012) – Used neighborhoods like Balat and Eminönü as a stand-in for Tehran, and filmed key scenes inside the Hagia Sophia.
• Taken 2 (2012) – The Liam Neeson action sequel famously features Bryan Mills driving through the winding streets of Istanbul and fighting on the rooftops.  
• The Accidental Spy (2001) – The Jackie Chan action movie highlights a famous chase and fight sequence winding through the Spice Bazaar.

We spent two days in Istanbul. My general observations:

• It’s really, really old—over 2,600 years old as an established city, with human habitation in the region dating back nearly 8,500 years.
• For a big city, it’s relatively clean. 
• In a city of 15 million people, I didn’t see a single homeless person. According to our guide, there are two reasons: 1) Families take care of their families here. However difficult it might be to take in a struggling family member, it would be shameful to leave them on the street; and 2) People here don’t want to be homeless, which isn’t always the case in our country.
• There are mosques everywhere—over 3100! Over 90% of Istanbul’s population identifies as Muslim, however the level of religious observance varies significantly. About 47% of adults actively practice their Muslim faith, another 45% culturally/traditionally identify as Muslim but are secular/non-observant, and less than 10% identify with Christianity (including Greek Orthodox, Armenian, and Catholic communities) or are Jewish. 

My Top 5 Favorite Things We Saw/Did in Istanbul:

1. Basilica Cistern – unforgettable! I never thought I’d be this excited about an underground watering hole. It was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian I. In From Russia with Love, an early James Bond classic, 007 boards the Orient Express and navigates these waters. 

• Bosphorus Cruise – sticking with the water theme, we boarded a boat for a 2 hour tour… a 2 hour tour! I’ve never seen such an incredible assortment of water-side palaces, fortresses, universities, and getaways for the rich and famous, and it’s always a treat to be out on the water on a sunny day. However, there was the “Tilley Hat Incident”, featuring my friend Joe Johnson (aka Gilligan), who is determined to “out faux pas” me on this trip. With the wind gusting in the middle of the Bosphorus Strait, he decided not to use the strap on his Tilley hat—a strap designed to keep the hat on your head when you’re in, say, heavy winds on the Bosphorus. Next thing we know, Joe’s hat has blown overboard and is floating in 200 feet of water! He was distraught because it’s his favorite hat and they no longer make it in that color. Before Mary Anne and Ginger were able to console him, the captain whipped our party boat around and went on a daring search and recovery effort to retrieve Joe’s hat. When the deckhand scooped the hat from the water in a fishing net, the entire crowed erupted in applause and shouting! One gentleman in our party was so determined to get a picture of the hat being retrieved that he stumbled down the ladder, severely cut his hand, and is at the ER this evening being treated. (Thurston Howell III is footing the bill.) Of course, I blame Joe for the injury, because I can. But he provided the most entertaining moment of the day so… hats off to him!

• Punto Carpet demonstration – Sadly, the Grand Bazaar—the largest and oldest covered market in the world, with 61 covered streets and 4,000 shops—was closed during our visit due to a holiday. In 2014, it was listed No. 1 among the world’s most-visited tourist attractions, with 91,250,000 annual visitors, but we were not able to add to that total.  As an alternative, we spent a couple of hours at the nearby Punto carpet shop, where the owner treated us to drinks and a demonstration on how Turkish rugs are made. These are some of the finest in the world, ranging from a few hundred dollars to over $25,000. It was nice to get off our feet, sip some Turkish coffee and tea, and learn about a centuries-old trade that is important to these folks. Several in our group bought rugs.

• Hagia Sophia – this iconic church building, built in 537 AD, is a UNESCO World Heritage site celebrated as the epitome of Byzantine architecture. It started as the primary Christian Orthodox cathedral of Constantinople, but later served as an imperial mosque, a museum, and later was reconverted into an active mosque. It was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly a thousand years. While it is certainly impressive, I had to drop it to 4^th place because it is undergoing a major renovation (due to earthquake damage) and so there is significant scaffolding visible inside and out.

• Hippodrome Square – I enjoyed standing on the grounds where crowds of 10,000 people or more cheered on chariot races during the Roman and Byzantine Empires. Bonus points for beautiful views of Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace and some famous obelisks. 

Honorable Mention: the Archeological Museum and the Chora Church… google them to learn more! I’ll post some photos from our trip on FaceBook eventually–but not all 200 and counting!

The ladies were required to wear scarves at certain religious sites. I asked Janet if doing that would make her more subservient. She made me do 20 push-ups!

Wonderful couple of days in Istanbul! Our focus was more on history and culture than “spirituality”, per se, but that’s about to change! We have arrived in Thessaloniki—just like the Apostle Paul , Silas, and Timothy did around AD 50 on Paul’s second missionary journey. 

It’s time to walk in Paul’s footsteps, both literally and figuratively!

I almost got arrested this week—nearly ended up in a Turkish prison. I’ll get to that.

A few years ago, Janet and I decided to do a tour of Greece for our 40^th wedding anniversary in 2028. Both of our sons had spent time in Greece and raved about their experiences. We also did a tour of the Holy Lands in 2013 and consider it the best trip we’ve ever been on.

Our timeline accelerated, however, when we learned of a faith-based tour to Istanbul and Greece being offered by Kenneth Mills Tours, with commentary provided by Dr. Bruce McLarty! Bruce was the Harding University President when our youngest, Kyle, was the Student Association President, so the two of them worked closely together and Kyle speaks highly of him. 

As added incentive, I have felt increasingly compelled not to wait on bucket list items. We’re not guaranteed good health or even to be alive in two minutes, much less two years. If there’s something you really want to do and have the opportunity to do it, don’t wait for the “perfect” time. Go get it while you can! If you can bring along dear friends, as we did with neighbors Joe & Jan Johnson and Kevin & Dana Townsend (friends of 37 years), all the better.

Our first challenge was at the Atlanta airport, where we had to get from Terminal A to the international Terminal E in the 23 minutes between landing and boarding again. To add to the excitement, Joe inadvertently left his Fannie pack on the plane and tried to return and re-board to find it. The stewardesses were having none of that but agreed to retrieve the pack on his behalf. We then activated OJ Simpson mode—no, not murdering our spouses but running through the airport, hurdling strollers, and pushing nuns out of the way.

We made it just in time and found our seats. Joe, who was sitting behind me, pointed out the floor panel along the wall between us was dislodged! We could look down and see the underbelly of the plane—the place where you can find landing gear and the skeleton of the winner of the Delta Airlines 1987 hide-and-go-seek contest. 

Joe called the stewardess over. I told her I was a former Sojourner and could repair the panel with some duct tape. She declined my offer, said she’d submit a work order, and suggested we not drop anything like our cell phones into the 12” x 15” hole. To her credit, she also put 5,000 miles on each of our Delta accounts! I figure if we knock out and then point out three more 12” x 15” holes on future Delta flights, we’ll earn a free trip.

The 8 hour, 45 minute flight across the pond was as pleasant as it can be for a 6’ 2” guy in a seat designed for Kevin Hart, next to a gaping hole in the floor. I didn’t sleep but was able to watch the movies Marty Supreme and Mercy.

In Amsterdam, we began running into some of the 40 green-lanyard wearing people also on the Walking with Paul tour. I showed my appreciation for them by finding an empty bench nearby and sleeping for an hour.

At 11:30 a.m. local time on Thursday morning, we began boarding Delta 9568 to Istanbul. We showed our passports, swiped our boarding passes, and headed over to the entrance to the gangway. Unfortunately, the door was closed and locked even though several passengers had already gone through it. Another passenger and I pushed, pulled, and turned the doorknob, to no avail. It was locked. 

I looked to the left of the door and spotted a green button, labeled “Open Door”. Whenever I need to open a locked door and I see a sign telling me to push a green button to open the door, I’m going to push that button. So, I did. Well, folks, it turns out it was a fire alarm and sirens were now blaring throughout the Amsterdam Airport!

The next thing I saw was a gate agent from KLM’s Royal Dutch Airlines—the blond gal in a pigtail probably named Heidi who had told me to “enjoy your flight” two minutes earlier—come barreling toward me with her hair on fire (which, technically, would justify me pulling the alarm). I looked for a hiding place, not unlike young Anne Frank and her family did in 1942, a mere 17 kilometers away. If Heidi had been wearing wooden shoes, I’m convinced she would have beaten me with one of them. I tried to avoid blame by subtly pointing my elbow toward Janet, but there were too many witnesses.

Heidi stared me down and yelled, “Jij stomme Amerikaan!” which does not mean “Enjoy your flight!” Moments later, an angry fire marshal arrived and I explained my actions. He said, “Did you not read the other sign to the right of the button, written in English—“Only use in emergencies”? 

“No, sir, I did not. I’m very sorry.”

“Do you want to go to prison?” (At this point, Janet started laughing. She clearly has no concept of what goes on in Turkish prisons.)

“No, sir, I do not want to go to prison.” I wanted to add, “Listen, I’ve been awake for 23 of the past 24 hours, just had to straddle a terrifying, gaping hole in the floor of the plane while flying over the North Atlantic Ocean–right over the Titanic wreckage, was just served a slice of cheese and cold, ground up eggs between two slices of bread for breakfast, I really just need to get to Istanbul for some Baklava, so how about turning off the alarm, calling off your attack dog Heidi, and opening the door?”

I only thought these things.

After being shown Dutch mercy and finally arriving in Istanbul, we met up with long-time friends Kevin and Dana and the rest of the Walking with Paul tour! Our amazing tour guide, Pinar, herded us like tired, elderly cats through the massive airport, with only one person falling.

We made it to Istanbul, y’all! The ancient, ~ 8,500-year-old city spans two continents, physically bridging Europe and Asia. We’ll spend two days and two nights here for a cultural immersion, before flying to Thessaloniki, where we’ll begin walking in the footsteps of the Apostle Paul.

I hope you’ll join us!

Until then, don’t push any green buttons!

I haven’t cried for my mom in 10 years.

The last time was May 8^th, 2016. I was alone in my tent, about 11 miles southwest of Pearisburg, Virginia… 623 miles and 58 days into my journey along the Appalachian Trail.

I remember it like it was yesterday. The pain in my bruised feet was excruciating. My right elbow was sore and swollen from an earlier fall. As a side sleeper who rolls around a lot, that made for a restless night. I crawled from my tent, hobbled to a nearby tree, retrieved my food bag, and walked gingerly back to my tent. I sat there for a few minutes rubbing my foot with one hand and eating a pop tart with the other. 

A quick glance at my phone reminded me that it was Mother’s Day, the first since my dear mother had passed away from cancer. Emotion overwhelmed me. I’m not much of a crier—ENTJs tend to not be all that emotionally expressive. But with a mouth full of pop tart, I laid back on my air mattress and had my first good, long AT cry. I thought about my mom and how much I missed my wife. To make matters worse, I was alone in the middle of the Virginia wilderness, nursing an injured elbow, and dealing with foot pain that made it difficult to take a single step, much less cover the 1566 miles remaining. On my 58^th day on the AT, I had reached rock bottom. 

Margaret Elizabeth Johnson… Peg… MeMe… Mom… was a remarkable woman. She had a boundless, unconditional love for her children and grandchildren. She was my biggest fan. 

For a couple of decades, Mom provided respite care to families with special needs children and adults. There was a steady stream of special people who showed up in our home for a few hours or a few days… Lurleen, Tommy, Marge, the list goes on and on. Through her actions, Mom taught me to notice, love, and care for “the least of these”—to find the best in them, wherever I found them.

Mom also had a passion for yard sales and flea markets. On my first treasure hunt with her as a young boy, circa 1972, we walked down Fiddlers Green in Dover, Delaware, pulling a red wagon. At our neighbor’s house, I spotted a box full of used action heroes, priced at 25 cents each. I retrieved a worn Spiderman, incredulous that someone would depart with a still-functioning action hero. I asked Mom if I could get him. She examined him closely, looked toward the heavens, then said, “See if she’ll take 20 cents.” I thought, “Are we that poor?” I walked over to our neighbor and made the offer. She looked at Mom, looked at Spidey, and then told me we had a deal. I came to realize that it wasn’t about the money. It was about the art of the deal—finding the bargain—and using those moments to interact with neighbors.

I could describe how Mom treated every ailment, from runny noses to sucking chest wounds, with J.R. Watkins’ Menthol Camphor cough suppressant rub—better known as “green salve”. The jar reads, “remedies for the body” and mom took that literally. My sisters, our kids, our spouses, and I continue to use the magic ointment regularly. My oldest son Jason still has the original jar MeMe gave him, uses it liberally, and refills it as needed. Mom’s legacy lives on.

I could tell you about Mom’s tendency to fill her purse with crackers and non-dairy creamer containers from restaurant salad bars and tables. She’d tell us, “It’s okay. We’ve already paid for it.”

I could tell you about a thousand Christmas and beach trip memories with Mom at the center. She made sure every family member walked away knowing they were loved.

I’m oh so thankful for Mom. For raising me. For taking me and my sisters to church every Sunday. For loving us unconditionally. 

Mom may be gone in a physical sense, but I’m struck, especially each Mother’s Day, with how her legacy lives on in many ways and through many people. 

When Janet holds a crying Bradford tightly to comfort him from a double ear infection, or caregives her parents for 5+ years, I see Mom.

When daughter-in-law Rachel is up all night, feeding, changing, and holding an upset Roo, I see Mom.

When daughter-in-law Laci juggles the demands of working and serving with motherhood, to help provide for her family, I see Mom.

When I see Rachel and Laci’s moms, Jackie and Tami, care for hurting friends and loved ones, or read Bible stories to their grands, I see Mom.

When I see sibling Ellen distributing special thrift store finds to the family at Christmas, or I see a jar of “green salve” by Stacy’s bedside table, I see Mom.

If your Mom is alive today, be thankful for that. Tell her you love her. Cherish every moment. Tell her you appreciate the sacrifices she surely made to raise you. Store up memories at every opportunity.

If your Mom has died and you’re feeling that loss today, I’m sorry. I feel your pain. I wish I could tell you it was temporary but that hasn’t been my experience. I carry the love and the grief with me but mostly focus on the love. As someone put it, “Grief is the last act of love we have to give those we loved. Where there is deep grief, there was great love.”

If your mom is no longer around physically, I hope you’re able to cling to fond memories of her. 

I hope you’re able to forgive any times when she came up short, something we all do from time to time. 

I hope you’re able to see the best of your mom in the lives of other women, especially mothers, who are still around.

If you knew my Mom, you were blessed. She was not a perfect woman—we all have our struggles. But she loved God and loved her family—words anyone would want on their tombstone.

I said earlier I haven’t cried for my mom in 10 years. Well, that’s no longer true. We’re going to need to reset the clock. 

I love you, Mom! Can’t wait to see you on the other side. Since our bodies require no “remedying” in heaven, I suspect you’ll no longer have that continuous, feint smell of green salve. Or maybe everyone in heaven uses it, God’s way of ensuring no pain or suffering.

Regardless, I’ll find you. I promise you that. I’ll be looking for the dear, sweet, little lady, walking around checking on other souls, pulling a red wagon.