On our way to Delphi, we passed through the town of Marathon. In 490 BC, the Greek messenger Pheidippides ran about 26 miles from Marathon to Athens to announce the Athenian victory against the Persians at the Battle of Marathon. After receiving high fives from officials who feared that a defeat would lead to a devastating invasion, he shouted, “We have won!”, then collapsed and died. (In the Marine Corps and Disney World marathons of 2007 and 2014, respectively, I too collapsed at the finish line but didn’t die.)

Our journey took us up, over, and around several 8000+-foot, spectacular, towering massifs that define the landscape of Central Greece. The famous Delphi olive grove, containing approximately 1.2 to 1.5 million olive trees spanning 23 square miles, is one of the oldest and largest continuous olive groves in the Balkans. Roughly 70% of the trees at the UNESCO-protected landscape are over 150 years old, with some reaching up to 300 to 2,000 years of age. Olive cultivation here dates back thousands of years, and a traditional trail still passes through the grove, tracing the footsteps of ancient pilgrims making their way to the Oracle of Delphi. 

Speaking of footsteps, as we rolled into Delphi, my Garmin watch had us at 53.9 total miles walked over 7 days! You don’t have to be able to run a marathon to go on one of these trips, but I highly recommend being in good walking shape.

The view from our hotel room in Delphi was heavenly. On the horizon to the left, the Gulf of Corinth. To the right, olive groves covered the landscape up to the base of mountains I’d like a crack at. Closer in, an inviting hotel pool, just begging a group of 40 senior citizens with dusty feet and knobby knees to take the plunge. We did not, as our default core value is always—always—more food! So we ate!

That evening, we strolled up and down the streets of picturesque downtown Delphi, at the foot of Mt. Parnassus, featuring outdoor cafes, boutiques, and shopping. So far, this was my favorite town we’ve visited—great vibe, friendly people.

So why are we in Delphi? The Ancient Greeks believed that Delphi was the Navel of the Earth, a place seen as a spiritual focal point for all Greeks. It earned that designation, according to myths, when Zeus, the sky and thunder god, sent two eagles from opposite ends of the earth and they met in what is now Delphi. The site included many sanctuaries and the most prestigious oracle in all of ancient Greece. They believed this is where Pythia, the high priestess, uttered the prophetic advice of the god Apollo to mortals who travelled from across the world. Apart from Greeks, the Oracle was visited also by foreign leaders and dignitaries who were anxious to know the will of Apollo on important state affairs.

The first stop on our morning tour was the Gymnasium at Delphi, an ancient Greek athletic and educational complex constructed in the 4th century BC. It featured a multi-terraced layout designed for physical training, including a covered xystos for running, a palaestra for combat sports like wrestling and boxing, and bathing facilities fed by the sacred Castalian waters. It is considered one of the most complete surviving examples of a classical gymnasium. Originally dedicated to preparing athletes for the Pythian Games—a major festival honoring Apollo—the facility evolved over time.

Our tour took an awkward turn when our guide told us gymnasium originates from the Ancient Greek word gymnós, which means “naked” or “nude”. Yes, in Ancient Greece, athletes trained and competed in the nude, leading to the verb gymnázein, meaning “to exercise or train naked”. Of the many directions I could go with this paragraph, please consider which Olympic event you’d least like to compete in sans clothes. For me, it would be the 400 meter hurdles. Let’s move on.

Our guide led us up the hill to see the Temple of Apollo (the core of the sanctuary where the priestess Pythia delivered prophecies), the Athenian Treasury (a beautifully reconstructed building that housed offerings from the city of Athens), and the Stadium, located at the highest point of the sanctuary. Joe and I attempted to enter the Pythian Games but were disqualified for not running gymnasium-style. We finished with a stroll through the Archaeology Museum which housed spectacular finds like the famous Bronze Charioteer and the Naxian Sphinx.

Allow me to pause here and ascend to my high horse. As incredibly impressive as the Oracle of Delphi ruins are, it needs to be said that what happened here wasn’t true or rooted in reality. There is no real god Apollo. No supernatural utterances occurred here. The Oracle spoke in general terms that were open to interpretation. Her prophecies were legendary for being incredibly vague. It would be like a fortune teller telling you, “Something bad will happen to you this month. You will be unhappy.” Good chance she’ll be right! So, it’s mind-boggling to me that hundreds of thousands of people, over more than a thousand years, paid fortunes to consult with women who were “prophesying” (in this case, uttering nonsense) on behalf of a false, non-existent god (like every other character in Greek mythology). Today, it would be like spending your life savings in order to watch The View.

There is truth—there are absolute facts. Not my truth. Not your truth. Just truth. You’ll find truth on the pages of the Bible, and rooted in the life, death, and resurrection of Jesus Christ. In John 14:6, Jesus said, “I am the way, and the truth, and the life. No one comes to the Father except through me.” If you want prophecies, read the prophecies in the Bible. They have come true and will continue to come true. Many are very specific. If you are concerned about the future and need discernment over which path to take, don’t go to Delphi to chat with an oracle. Don’t consult fortune tellers or read daily horoscopes. Instead, talk to God—pray. Read your Bible. Everything you need is right there! That’s the truth!

After departing Athens the following morning, we stopped at a gas station for a break. The gas stations in Greece aren’t as big as Buc-ee’s, nor are the bathrooms as nice. (As I recall, 100% of Buc-ee’s commodes have golden toilet seats.) But the Grecian gas stations always deliver something special—handmade almond & honey Baklava, spice mix for roasted lamb, jasmine olive oil soap, an assortment of packaged olives, or perhaps a peacock farm out back. At today’s stop, I paid 2 Euros for a 5-minute, full-body rejuvenating chair massage! I never wanted it to end. In fact, I came close to telling the group, “You all go on. I’ll catch up with you tomorrow. I want to drop another 24 Euros for an hour-long massage, while sipping an Americano.”

Instead, I got back on the bus.

Because that’s what we do. 

We eat. 

We look at old stuff. 

Then we get back on the bus.

Next stop: Athens. I hear there’s some good stuff there. We shall see!