Merry Christmas from Da Johnsons! Through the years, we’ve sat through many classes on marriage, financial planning, and child-rearing. We know how to balance a checkbook, drive a stick, and cook in an Instapot. But no one teaches you how to care for parents. You get to figure that out on your own.
In 2021, we got schooled in caregiving. We learned how to track and order dozens of meds. We got educated on testing sugar levels, injecting insulin, and limiting S’mores consumption. We practiced quarantining, Covid transfusions, and hearing aid adjustments. We negotiated two hip replacement surgeries and, thanks to Steve’s ill-advised cave tour, a broken foot. We became adept at hearing and responding to a parent on the move in the middle of the night. We got a dad into assisted living and then got him out. We learned how to manage another set of accounts, passwords, and bills. We got to know dozens of healthcare professionals throughout the county, and a few cops at an accident scene. We learned the joy of VA paperwork and unreturned phone calls, and that the timely administration of Coumadin and stool softeners earns you street cred. We learned to caveat vacation and social plans with “if we’re able” and where to find discount garage ramps, walkers, and toilet seat risers. We learned to talk loudly at the supper table and repeat every sentence. And, in case you ever need one, we now know how to give a sponge bath with dignity.
Elfish
More importantly, we learned to sigh at the end of the day. And smile. And hug. And pray. And vent a little. We learned to remind each other that caregiving is an awesome responsibility and a privilege…a way to honor the people who brought you into the world and cared for you for many years. More than anything, we feel blessed by this season of life.
S’mores Master Class
Of course, 2021 was about more than just caregiving. In April, with Janet’s sister Cathy helping us on the home front, we spent an incredible month in Maui! Steve was asked to preach for a congregation there, and we got to snorkel with sea turtles, see waterfalls from a helicopter, hike a dozen trails, whale watch on a dinner cruise, nap on some of the world’s finest beaches, and party at a luau. Also, while traveling the Road to Hana, Tarzan Steve swung from a vine at a watering hole and was rewarded with 11 staples in his head.
In addition to her caregiving duties, Janet is working on her Master of Crochet degree. If she can visualize it, she can make it. She also enjoyed speaking at a couple of Ladies Days this year and handling communication for the Ladies ministry.
Hiking Maui
Steve continues to observe the world around him and write about it, often at coffee shops. In addition to blogging, he’s bouncing between three book projects. He continues to sub all grades at Knoxville Christian School and speak to the Blount County prisoners twice per month. Janet also allowed him to sneak away this year to do disaster relief in Waverly TN and Jean Lafitte LA, with a trip to Mayfield KY upcoming.
In October, we headed to the Florida gulf coast for our niece’s wedding and much-needed beach time with our children. Our sons and their wives make us proud every day. Jason is battling Lyme disease, an illness which has led him to transition from prosthetics to working from home. Kyle became the Preaching Minister at Lafayette Church of Christ this year and continues to impact lives in this new position.
We hope your 2022 is a special one. If you need to get away to the mountains, please stop by and stay in our basement suite. Our free “Airbnb” comes with Roku TV, unlimited Keurig coffee, and a complimentary sponge bath.
Papa Raymond, my 88-year-old father-in-law, will have his second hip replacement surgery of 2021 tomorrow afternoon, on Veterans Day. Later this year, he’ll have eye surgery. You see what he’s up to, right? His plan looks obvious to me. Over the course of the next few years, he’s going to methodically replace all his body parts. He’s going to begin his ninth decade of life with the body of a 20-year-old. His 90th birthday cake will read, “Happy Birthday, Benjamin Button Climer!”
Preparation for tomorrow’s surgery begins at midnight tonight when Papa begins to fast. Wanting his next-to-last meal prior to surgery to be a good one, I made him my specialty: grilled hot dog with cheese and onions, along with a side of mac & cheese. As my cooking skills go, this is high-end. Whenever Big Steve lights the grill or pulls out a saucepan, something special is going down.
Toward the end of lunch, Papa did something he never does… ask for seconds. This is a man who eats like a dieting canary and weighs 138 pounds soaking wet. He never asks for seconds. For that matter, he rarely finishes firsts. So, when he asked to finish off the mac & cheese, we were all stunned.
“Tomorrow’s a big day, a lot going on,” he smiled and said. “Better get my nourishment today.”
Papa is a wise man. This isn’t his first rodeo, nor his first hip replacement. He knows what’s involved. It will be a challenging day, featuring drugs, needles, IVs, hospital food and, if he’s lucky, cute nurses. It all begins with about 15 hours of fasting. For a guy who likes his morning strawberry strudel with coffee, that’s tough. It’s a challenge. It’s a big day, especially for an 88-year-old.
How does he prepare? He loads up on nourishment today. He knows an extra scoop of mac & cheese today will strengthen him for whatever challenges tomorrow brings. This proactive consumption of calories might also make tomorrow’s inevitable 11 a.m. hunger pains a little more manageable.
On this beautiful fall day in Maryville, Papa’s words are now looping in my brain: “A lot going on tomorrow… better get my nourishment today.”
And then I look out on the back porch and see Papa. Like almost every other day of his life, there’s an open Bible in his lap.
“For while we were still weak, at the right time Christ died for the ungodly. For one will scarcely die for a righteous person—though perhaps for a good person one would dare even to die—but God shows his love for us in that while we were still sinners, Christ died for us.” – Romans 5:6-8
On the radio today, a local businessman discussed an interesting aspect of the Coronavirus pandemic. He said it forced him to prioritize and categorize the relationships in his life.
Category 1 contains his “worth getting sick for” friends and family. These are the most important people in his life. He cherishes these relationships so much that he has been willing to risk getting the virus in order to be with them. Put another way, the real loss of not being with these special people for months or years trumped the potential risk of catching or spreading the virus.
Category 2 contains his “not worth getting sick for” friends and family. These people are still valuable to him, but they are not in his inner core of relationships. These are people you would regret not seeing for a year or longer as you wait out the virus, but they aren’t your most critical relationships. They aren’t worth the risk.
You may take exception to his approach, but he’s right in that we all prioritize our relationships. Your spouse and children mean more to you than the other people in your neighborhood. You may value your Christian friendships over casual acquaintances at the office.
Jesus makes no distinctions. He loves every one of us. He didn’t wait for us to love him or to stop sinning before He was willing to die for us. He selflessly and proactively gave himself up.
With Jesus, there are no “worth dying for” and “not worth dying for” categories. He loves all of us equally. We’re all worth it. He was willing to go far beyond the risk of being harmed. He came to Earth knowing full well the certainty of a horrific, painful death.
Still, two categories remain:
Christians – those who are obedient to God’s Word. They believe in Christ, have confessed His name, have repented of their sins, have put on Christ in baptism, and continue to live faithfully.
Everyone else.
In John 14:6, Jesus said, “I am the way, and the truth, and the life. No one comes to the Father except through me.”
Have you heard the expression, “I like the idea of…”?
I like the idea of writing a book. Translation: I would love to be an author, but I don’t intend to literally go through the difficult process of turning an idea into a book.
I like the idea of hiking the entire Appalachian Trail. Translation: I like the idea of being an Appalachian Trail thru-hiker, but I don’t intend to literally climb up and down mountains for 12-15 miles each day for the next six months.
I like the idea of being healthy and fit. Translation: I know a healthy and fit lifestyle would be good for me, but I don’t intend to consistently eat right and exercise. That’s too much trouble.
What about the Bible? Do you like the idea that God took the time to communicate to us in writing? How about liking the idea of certain Bible passages? Let’s take Hebrews 13:2: “Do not forget to show hospitality to strangers, for by so doing some people have shown hospitality to angels without knowing it.”
That sounds like a neat idea. I like the idea of it.
Just don’t expect me to do it.
I mean, I’m hospitable to my family. We open our doors to loved ones and celebrate family gatherings with feasts and frivolity.
I’m also hospitable to my friends. We have hosted many friends travelling through East Tennessee and have shared many meals with our church friends. Are we hospitable? Absolutely!
But that’s not what Hebrews 13:2 is about, is it? Hospitality to strangers is a whole different ball game. When was the last time you invited a perfect stranger into your home? The very notion sounds risky, even unsafe. That may have worked in Bible times, but today, not so much.
At a restaurant, when was the last time you invited a stranger, sitting alone, to join you and your family? Seems a little awkward. I mean, you don’t know the person. What if they’re weird? What if they have a virus? What if they have nothing in common with you? What will you talk about?
Don’t get me wrong—I like the idea of being hospitable to strangers. But in practice, I’m going to take Hebrews 13:2 and line through “to strangers.” Isn’t it enough for me to just be hospitable? Shouldn’t I live prudently, manage risk, and limit my social contact and generosity to known quantities?
But wait, Hebrews 13:2 isn’t finished. The stranger before me might be an angel. Isn’t that special? I like the idea of it.
Of course, it’s not realistic. It’s probably an exaggeration—a divine figure of speech. That stranger sitting across from me at the restaurant, or three pews in front of me, or on the street corner asking for his next meal, couldn’t possibly be a messenger from God. That’s silly. What are the odds?
So, while I like the idea of Hebrews 13:2, I’m going to reword it as follows: “Show hospitality to your friends and family.” Now that’s more like it! Thanks for accommodating that quick edit, God! I’m going to show hospitality to my family and friends like never before! I appreciate you working with me on that. I think we’ll find this approach is more reasonable and less risky.
While I got you here, God, can we discuss Matthew 5:44? I mean, I like the idea of loving my enemies…
It’s taken me a couple of days to process and try to make sense of the situation unfolding in Afghanistan. I hope you’ll give me the space to “think out loud” for a few moments.
I could write about politics and unload on this Administration. Not so much that we’re getting out of Afghanistan, but how we went about it. It’s a travesty on multiple levels, but I try to avoid divisive politics on social media. Few minds are ever changed. Vote your conscience.
I could write about national strategy as it relates to Afghanistan. I’ve studied national strategy and warfighting at one of our nation’s most prestigious schools. Tens of thousands of debates have occurred, and papers have been written, on our interests in Afghanistan. Do we stay and keep fighting for a third decade? Do we get out completely? Do we leave a smaller contingency force behind to gather intelligence and put out fires? How do we balance humanitarian interests and nation-building with the loss of American lives? Queue the endless debates.
I could write about one of the fundamental principles of leadership: owning a mistake, learning from it, and committing to do better. Blaming others doesn’t instill confidence. I wish there was more personal accountability and less political posturing in government. I can’t fix that. I can only own my own mistakes.
Instead, I want to share with you how this hit me personally. My youngest son, sensing all may not be well between my ears, checked on me late last night. I told him it had been a surprisingly difficult day emotionally. I’m dealing with anger, frustration, and sadness. I can only imagine what those who lost friends and loved ones in Afghanistan, or served multiple tours there, are dealing with. I can only imagine the suffering on the ground there—our Allies being rounded up, young girls being plucked from their homes, etc.
Through all those emotions, one question is stuck in my head: Was it worth it?
I volunteered to spend 6 months at Bagram Air Base in 2007—6 months away from my wife and two young sons—because I wanted to do my part. I wanted to make a difference. I wanted to help support the Airmen who were directly killing terrorists. I wanted to make a difference in the lives of the Afghanistan people.
Watching the videos of The Taliban in the presidential palace and walking around Bagram Air Base was shocking. Seeing terrified Afghans scrambling and dropping from an airplane broke my heart. It felt like we were back to square one. It felt like the loss of life and billions of dollars spent over the past two decades were a complete waste. It felt like I would have been better off spending those six months being a present, supportive husband and a dad to my sons.
Those feelings make me highly cynical and jaded. I start thinking… “Because it didn’t last, it shouldn’t have been started. Because it didn’t turn out as we had hoped, it was a wasted effort. The poor, long-term returns prove it was a misguided investment.”
But do they?
This isn’t the first thing in my life that hasn’t, over the long haul, turned out as planned.
As a teacher, youth minister, and mentor, I’ve invested countless hours in some young people who “didn’t turn out as planned,” although God’s not through with them yet. Wasted effort?
As a missionary several years ago, I worked tirelessly alongside others to help plant a church in a third-world country, only to see it fold a few years later. Wasted effort?
As a disaster relief worker, I’ve “mucked” and hung dry wall in many flooded homes, only to see those same homes and communities flooded again in subsequent years. Wasted effort?
As an Airman, I deployed to Afghanistan to help good people and stop bad ones. Yesterday, the bad people won (at least until God settles all accounts). Wasted effort?
As a Christian, I’ve prayed for sick people, including my mom, to get well. God had other plans. Wasted effort?
That kind of thinking will leave one jaded and cynical. You stop trying—stop trying to do good in the world—because your efforts may not work or may not last. Given the lack of a guaranteed, long-term return, we don’t invest.
So, rather than debate politics and national strategy this afternoon, I just want to encourage you to keep doing good.
Invest in teaching and mentoring young people—some lives will be changed.
Share your faith, go on mission trips, plant churches—some will take root and last.
Help disaster victims. If the need arises, help them again.
Deploy to trouble spots or support those who do. Show kindness in the moments God has granted you, be that in a war zone, a school cafeteria, or your home.
Keep praying, even when some prayers seem to go unanswered. The Father knows best. And before bashing our leaders with perhaps well-deserved criticism, take a moment to bow and pray for them.
Like many Americans, I’m profoundly disappointed in what is transpiring in Afghanistan, but I’m not going to become jaded and cynical.
The truth is, sometimes I let my family and friends down. Sometimes, many times, God has every right to look down on me as a flawed human—a poor long-term investment.
“To the Jews I became as a Jew, in order to win Jews. To those under the law I became as one under the law (though not being myself under the law) that I might win those under the law… To the weak I became weak, that I might win the weak. I have become all things to all people, that by all means I might save some.” – 1 Corinthians 9:20, 22
While volunteering at Palmetto Bible Camp in South Carolina, my burly friend Joel and I put our spouses in charge of planning our day off. Big mistake. Instead of the obvious options of fishing, going for barbecue, or relaxing in our RVs, Janet and Karen suggested we attend an equestrian competition at the nearby Tryon International Equestrian Center.
“They want to go watch dressage,” Joel lamented, running his thumb and index finger over his white, bushy mustache.
“What’s dressage?” I asked.
“It’s the French word for dull and boring.”
“Oh, quit,” Karen interjected, as she herded us toward the car. “It’s horse reigning. You’ll have fun.”
Aside from our preference to eat pigs rather than watch horses and riders execute a series of predetermined moves, why were Joel and I so reluctant?
We didn’t know anybody. We had no children, grandchildren, spouses, or friends among the competitors. We hadn’t placed any bets. We had no dog, or rather horse, in the fight.
We didn’t understand the jargon, competition elements, time limits, deductions, brackets, arenas, and prizes. None of it made any sense. Just outside the arena, vendors were selling jewelry and windows. That didn’t make any sense either. Joel and I followed the lead of our fellow spectators and applauded but didn’t know what the horse or rider had done to earn it. We didn’t get it.
Since we didn’t get it, we didn’t fit in. This wasn’t our culture. These weren’t our people. We were surrounded by horse people doing horsey things. We were RV guys who would have felt more at home at an RV show (or eating barbecue). We didn’t belong here.
With few exceptions, the spectators weren’t all that into it. A few hooped and hollered but most sat passively and offered only cursory applause at the end of each performance. This was no Saturday afternoon college football game. Since the other spectators weren’t all that into it, why should we be?
I’ve had bad experiences with horses. My wife loves horseback riding and I’ve reluctantly joined her on many rides around the country. After sizing me up and inquiring as to my comfort level, the cowboys always pair me with the oldest and slowest horse in the barn. Then they chastise me throughout the ride for not keeping up.
One painful beach gallop—an anniversary gift to my wife—resulted in tears in my eyes and a week-long limp. On another ride, I watched a church friend crack her head open after being thrown from her horse. I rushed over and applied pressure to her wound with my t-shirt. It was traumatic not only for her and her children but for our other church friends who saw me shirtless. Yes, I’ve got horse baggage.
Still, Joel and I were there, getting our dressage on, surrounded by a few hundred people in an arena designed for a few thousand. Our experience and attitude regarding equestrian competitions reminds me of the way a lot of people view going to church.
“I don’t know anybody. It’s an auditorium full of strangers.”
“I don’t know what’s going on. There’s a lot of unfamiliar jargon and peculiar practices. What’s with the bread and juice ritual? What are elders and deacons? Where does the money go? How does this class or sermon relate to my real-life problems? I’m so confused.”
“I don’t belong. They have established friend groups and I’m an outsider. These are church people doing churchy things.”
“I’ve had bad experiences. I remember the way the church treated my parents during their divorce. Also, no one visited me when I was in the hospital, or the year I was shut-in due to the virus. I’ve got a closet full of church baggage.”
“The church members weren’t all that into it. No one made comments or asked questions in Bible class. The singing was ho-hum—not much energy. Everyone sat far apart from each other, even pre-Covid. Not much Spirit in this place.”
The result? Fewer people attend worship services these days. Like the Equestrian Center, many faith groups struggle to fill their building. What can be done? How can we reverse the trend?
Invite people. Bring them to a decision point. When is the last time you invited someone to church?
When visitors show up, introduce them to others. Connect them with potential friend groups. Take them to the appropriate Bible classes. I left the Equestrian Center with no new friends—no connections. I didn’t get the backstage tour—didn’t meet any riders. It was not enough to just watch them do what they do. We can’t afford for that to happen in our worship services.
Explain terms. Answer questions. Don’t assume people know what’s going on. At the Equestrian Center, one volunteer answered our questions and made sure we had a program. The program explained the scoring, categories, and other relevant material. I read about “change of foot”—a scoring element—and started looking for it. My experience improved once I understood what was going on.
Make people feel like they belong. Get them involved in a ministry. At the Equestrian Center, imagine how our experience would have been different if they had asked Janet to help transport the horses, Karen to hand out programs, or Joel and me to help repair a barn door. We would have felt needed—a part of the action. There would have been instant buy-in to what was going on.
Worship in Spirit. Along with your Bible, bring your passion to worship. Sing out. Participate. Make comments in class. Sit together like family. Say “Amen.” I’m not suggesting a rock concert scene, but worship doesn’t need to be a boring funeral service either.
Finally, consider things that may turn people away, such as archaic terminology or cliques. If you want Joel and me to frequent your equestrian events, or visitors to frequent your worship services, you don’t need throw out the rules—the doctrine. But you must see those events from our perspective. The note from the margin reads: Like Paul, we must consider the perspectives and the culture of the people we’re trying to reach.
Whether Joel and I attend another equestrian event doesn’t matter. Church attendance, however, is paramount. Hebrews 10:25 tells us to, “not giving up meeting together, as some are in the habit of doing.” Let’s do all we can to make visitors feel welcome and more likely to return. I may not understand dressage, but I know church services are where we worship God, learn His will, and draw closer to one another.
I had very little exposure to death as a child. There was the rare funeral for a grandparent or great-grandparent. I heard the occasional announcement from the pulpit that some elderly church member or shut-in had passed. I said goodbye to a couple of family dogs and the occasional, underfed goldfish. But I didn’t lose friends, read obituaries, or keep up with celebrity deaths. Death was rare in my childhood world, and that was alright by me.
All that has changed. An unpleasant aspect of growing older, I’m finding, is an awareness of death. I’ve now said goodbye to my mom, four grandparents, and a great-grandparent. I’ve learned of the deaths of a dozen classmates, about 5% of my high school graduating class, some who tragically took their own lives. The deaths of some of my favorite musicians and actors continue to pile up. I’ve eulogized a few friends from pulpits and sat through a few dozen funeral services. My wife and I even cowrote a book, The Eulogy, partly based on our experience caring for my dying mom.
More recently, we learned of the passing of Michelle Ashby, a long-time family friend, after her courageous, decades-long battle with cancer. She was a marigold lover, and I’ll be planting one of those in our garden today in her honor.
Last Monday, Michael Polutta, another family friend, died from a heart attack at age 58, while out mowing the grass. Just like that, this man of God was gone, at least in the physical sense. He wasn’t “some really old guy,” although my younger readers might argue that 58 is “getting up there.” He wasn’t out of shape—Michael was a fitness nut known for his CrossFit interval training. He wasn’t doing anything reckless. Just a 58-year-old guy out mowing the lawn.
Deaths aren’t increasing, of course, only my awareness of them. Like wrinkles, heartburn, and a few extra pounds, exposure to death is a part of growing up and growing old. As humans, we all have a terminal illness. None of us are getting out of this world alive.
I was blessed to be able to live-stream Michael’s memorial service this past weekend. Heartbroken family and friends gathered. Beautiful hymns were sung. We listened as various friends and family members stood behind the podium to tell Michael’s story. He had an impact on the world—an impact on people, in ways big and small. He loved God and the church. He loved and cared for his wife and children. He was a devoted friend to many. He was a talented musician who built more than a dozen custom guitars. He loved Palmetto Bible Camp and served there for many decades. Michael took the many talents God gave him, along with a capacity to love, and did something incredible with that. He turned the 58 years God granted him into a masterpiece!
The following day, Janet and I sat at the breakfast table, relaying some of the highlights of Michael’s service to her parents. I said something along the lines of, “You know, I don’t really like the whole eulogy system. Who came up with that? People line up at a memorial service to beautifully honor and pay tribute to the deceased, but he or she is already gone. He can’t hear them. I would love for Michael (or Michelle, or anyone who has passed away) to be able to hear the words spoken at their memorials. I want them to appreciate the impact they had on so many people. Why do we wait until they are dead to lay all that out? That’s a messed-up system. I mean, it’s good for their loved ones to hear all those things, but it would be even cooler for the person who died to feel that love and know that impact before they leave this world. There’s got to be a better system.”
Papa Raymond, my 87-year-old father-in-law, sat across from me, listening to my rant while nibbling on his morning strawberry strudel. He was adorned in solid blue, long-sleeved cotton pajamas, with his cane resting against his chair. With the addition of stripes, he would have passed for an elderly prisoner, perhaps incarcerated for the crime of distributing weekly S’mores without a license.
Like Jesus giving a parable, Papa Raymond cleared his throat and dropped this John 12:43 truth bomb on me:
“It’s not about the praise of men. Our goal is to please God.”
Mic drop.
As Papa digested his last bite of strudel, I digested his words.
“The praise of men.”
Isn’t that what we often focus on? Isn’t that what my eulogy system rant was about?
In 1 John 2:16-17, the apostle John writes, “For all that is in the world-the desires of the flesh and the desires of the eyes and the pride of life-is not from the Father but is from the world. And the world is passing away along with its desires, but whoever does the will of God abides forever.”
The praise of men. The pride of life. To some extent, it affects all of us.
Look at my new big house (or car, or boat, or…)
Have I mentioned my book sales figures lately?
I wonder how many “likes” this social media post or blog will get?
With just the right bikini, in just the right pose, I bet I can go over a million Instagram followers!
Have I not posted a picture of my bulging muscles at the gym recently? Let me fix that.
Pretty sure my casserole was the crowd favorite at the potluck
We’re in Maui! If 200 photos of our adventure aren’t enough, we’ll post more!
Look at our baby/child/teenager/adult and what they accomplished! They’re an honor student! They just got a full ride to college. To help you remember that, I’m getting a bumper sticker!
I’m not knocking all of that. I like to see your vacation photos. I’m happy that your teenager was named Homecoming Queen and glad you shared that. Your green bean casserole was amazing, and you should be proud of it. Sometimes your accomplishments, especially your acts of service, inspire me to be a better person.
What I’m knocking is a tendency by some, or at least by me, to focus more on the praise of men than pleasing God.
I focus more on accomplishing things than living faithfully. As I sip my first cup of coffee in the morning, I rarely ask myself, “What is something amazing I could do for God today?” More often, the focus is on pleasing myself, impressing the boss, satisfying the spouse, or getting the day’s chores accomplished and errands run. God being pleased is too often an afterthought, if thought of at all.
I have no doubt what was most important to Michael and Michelle was not the praise of men, but pleasing God. That’s the kind of people they were. The only words they wanted to hear, and undoubtedly did hear, were, “Well done, good and faithful servant.. Enter into the joy of your lord.”
Rank-ordering trails is like rank-ordering your children, unless one of them is Charles Manson. The highly subjective task involves dozens of variables. Was the trek challenging, leaving you with a sense of accomplishment? Did you meet someone interesting along the way and “talk story”? Are you into wildlife, rock climbing, magnificent vistas, or something historically significant? Do you prefer mountains, watering holes, or jungles? Want an out and back or a loop? How did the weather shape your opinion? Do you want “sustained excellence” throughout the hike or simply a big payoff at the end?
After considering many factors, I ultimately based my list on which hikes I would want to return to if I could only do a limited number, like one or five. With that in mind, let’s countdown my Top 10 Maui Hikes:
10. Waikamoi Ridge Trail – 1 out of 5 stars. After 9.5 miles on the winding Road to Hana, you may be ready to stretch your legs, sip coconut water, and release tension. This is a good place to do that. But I would stick to the picnic area at the beginning of the trail which has the only view. Beyond that, you’re looking at a .9-mile, densely wooded jungle trail with lots of roots and some mud. There are too many better sights and trails along the Road to Hana to spend much time, if any, on this one. For a more detailed description… https://roadtohana.com/waikamoi-nature-trail.php
9. Kuloa Point Trail – 2 out of 5 stars. Beyond Hana, at the very popular Oheo Gulch, you’ll find two popular hiking trails, and this is the lesser of the two. This short, ½-mile hike is well-suited for families, even Grandma. The payoff is arriving at the pools of Oheo Gulch and watching them spill into the ocean. These 22 majestic pools of water were closed to swimming when we were there. Had they been open, this trail would have rated higher. For more on the hike… https://www.hikingproject.com/trail/7017715/kuloa-point-trail
8. Twin Falls Trail – 3 out of 5 stars. This is the first significant stopping point on the Road to Hana, just beyond mile marker 2. After getting a snack, perhaps some coconut candy, at the food truck at the entrance, you’ll take a leisurely, less than 1-mile stroll through the Wailele Farm. Colorful flowers and trees line the path, and a stream runs alongside you. Suggest taking the branches off the main trail to explore the stream and stop for a photo at the first set of falls—the Twin Falls. Be careful—in 2019, a 37-year-old man died here after jumping from the falls into the lower pool and hitting his head.
You’ll eventually ford a small stream and cross a bridge. Soon the beautiful Caveman Falls will come into view. At this point, I had 3 decisions to make:
1) Do I get in the water? Answer: Yes! I’m in Maui! No regrets!
2) Do I swim over to the falls and let them crash down upon me? Yes! Totally exhilarating! (But only do this if you’re a good swimmer.)
3) Do I go over to a vine and swing from it? Answer: No! Do not do this! My short swing from a harmless-looking vine that others had been swinging from caused rocks to dislodge from above me. These rocks crashed down upon my head, arm, and back. I had 11 staples put in my head and will have scars there and probably on my back. Shout out to the Paia Fire Department for being in the vicinity and stopping the bleeding! And also, for only moderately flirting with my wife in the back of the 4-wheeler while I was being transported for triage.
7. Hosmer Grove Loop Trail – 3 out of 5 stars. Just inside Haleakala National Park, at about mile marker 10.5 on Highway 378, you’ll turn left to find the Hosmer Grove Campground and the start of the Hosmer Grove Trail. This half-mile trail is especially suited for tree and bird lovers. In 1909, Ralph Hosmer (1874-1963), the first Superintendent of Forestry of the Territory of Hawaii, created Hosmer Grove as an experimental forestry plot at the 8,500-9,000-foot level on the slopes of Haleakala. Shout out to Hosmer!
Those cedar, spruce, pine, eucalyptus, and other seedlings are now all grown up! In addition to the wonderful trees, you’ll find a variety of beautiful birds, including the colorful honeycreeper which is found nowhere else on earth. For more on this loop trail… https://www.hawaii-guide.com/maui/hiking-trails/hosmer_grove_loop_trail
6. Iao Valley State Park – 3.5 out of 5 stars. Most of the high-end resorts, sandy beaches, and touristy things to do in Maui are in West Maui (Lahaina and vicinity) and South Maui (from Kihei to Makena). Central Maui, on the other hand, is known more for its airport, more affordable shopping (e.g., WalMart, Costco), business, and politics. However, a must-do stop in Central Maui is the Iao Valley State Park.
On your way there, stop at Kepaniwai Park, a waterside park with a Japanese temple and short walks in themed gardens celebrating Hawaii’s culture. This is a great spot for a picnic along the creek, with the West Maui mountains and giant banyan trees surrounding you. A little farther up the road you reach Iao Valley State Park, which comes with a $10 parking fee, payable at an entrance kiosk. This is not a “hike” in the traditional sense, more of a walk through and around incredibly lush scenery in a stream-cut valley. In fact, this valley is unofficially the “wettest place on earth” with more than 400” of rainfall each year!
There are opportunities to read about the rich, but violent, history of the valley and gaze at the massive, natural rock formation known as Iao Needle. If you want to explore, go down to the water and head along a path going upstream. Or hop in the waters under the bridge for a quick dip. For more information… http://mauiguidebook.com/central-maui/iao-valley-state-park/
5. Keoneheehee – Sliding Sands Trail – 4.5 out of 5 stars. As we begin our Top 5 hikes, we are qualitatively going up a full star. These next 5 are something special—”must do” hikes. Each one offers something unique and exciting and could easily garner a #1 designation depending on what you’re looking for in a hike.
Upon arriving at the Visitors Center atop Haleakala Volcano, you’ll be treated to a jaw-dropping view of the inside of this dormant volcano. Seeing it for the first time was my second favorite moment in Maui (the first was seeing and then hanging out underwater with a sea turtle). If you get up super early and get to the summit in time for sunrise, you’ll get to experience what Mark Twain described as “the most sublime spectacle I have ever witnessed.” (Twain’s second most sublime spectacle, BTW, was watching Aunt Polly force Tom to whitewash that fence.)
Once you recover from the initial shock of peering down into the erosion crater, you can hike it! This is as close as I’ll ever get to walking on Mars. Many people consider it the #1 hike in Maui and I get that. A few things to keep in mind:
1) It can get downright cold at 10K+ feet, especially in the morning, so dress in layers and drink plenty of water.
2) The out and back trail is 12 miles long and what goes down must come up! If you go all the way down (we did not), you’ll then have to ascend along the sliding sands, with no shade, at 10,000 feet elevation. It’s not technically difficult, and the elevation gain/loss is consistent, but recliner lifestyle folks will find the climb out challenging. If you don’t have a full day or are not in good shape, just go a reasonable distance down the trail and then return.
3) Be sure to stay on the trail, so you don’t damage the rare and native Silverswords that grow near the trail.
4) If you’re interested in spending the night, there are cabins on the floor of the crater, available using a lottery system. Had we done that, this trail probably would’ve made the Top 2.
4. Waihee Ridge Trail – 4.5 out of 5 stars. First, let’s get the negative out of the way. This popular, northwest Maui trail has a small parking lot—we had to wait 10 minutes in a queue for a spot to open. Second, the first hundred yards or so of the trail are on a paved, very steep incline. Don’t let that discourage you. And don’t release any wheelchair-bound loved ones at the top of it—they’ll end up in downtown Wailuku. It gets (mostly) better. Third, the trail is very muddy in spots and chances are good you will slip and fall at some point.
Still, this is one of my favorite trails on Maui. The 4.5-mile, out and back hike is challenging! Janet will tell you she struggled at times, thought about quitting several times, and fell in the mud once. A little over a mile in, we hit a point where I didn’t know if she was going to cry, get mad, or find another gear and finish. Thankfully, she found that other gear, and I’m so proud of her!
In addition to being a challenging hike, the journey up the spine of the Waihee Valley offers lush scenery, a view of a waterfall, exciting ridgeline hiking, and (weather permitting) a gorgeous view of the coastal valley below. You’ll encounter rare birds, magnificent ferns, and tourists with muddy shorts and knees! It was our most difficult Maui hike, but also one of the best! For more information… http://mauiguidebook.com/adventures/waihee-ridge-trail/
3. Hoapili Trail – 5 out of 5 stars. When I get excited thinking about and describing a hiking trail, I know it has earned five stars. Such is the case with the Hoapili Trail. Back in 1790, or perhaps a little earlier, Haleakala erupted for the last time (maybe) and spewed lava along Maui’s southeast shore at La Perouse Bay, literally growing the island. Today, you’ll find a jagged, lava rock coastline, sea estuaries teeming with life, pristine snorkeling waters, secluded beaches, wildflowers, crashing waves, possible dolphin sightings, gnarled trees, lava fields as far as the eye can see, and wild goats. For the inner kid in me who wants not just to hike, but to explore nature, this hike has it all. It’s the kind of coastal hike an imaginative computer programming might come up with for a video game.
The full hike is a 6-mile round trip, but you may opt to turn around earlier once you’ve gotten the full lava experience. Wear sturdy hiking boots as you travel this surreal, rocky landscape, straight out of a Star Wars set. You also may want to bring an extra sandwich and bottle of water for the homeless person you’ll likely find at the trailhead parking lot here, and sometimes at other trailheads. For a more detailed description of the trail… https://www.maui-hikes.com/hoapili-trail
2. Kapalua Coastal Trail – 5 out of 5 stars. This 2.5-mile trail is more of a walk than a hike, but what a picturesque walk it is! It’s the perfect trail for families who want to see Maui’s beauty, without the difficulty of some of the other hikes on this list. It would also be a great running or dog-walking trail.
Like the Hoapili Trail, this one has a little something for everyone, including beaches, tidal pools, lava rocks, a wonderful view of Molokai, a bird sanctuary, great snorkeling (Kapalua Bay Beach), thundering surfs, sea cliffs, resort views, surfers, and more. My favorite part was exploring the lava formations, something you just don’t get to do at too many places in the world. For more information… https://www.alltrails.com/trail/hawaii/maui/kapalua-coastal-trail?u=i
1. Pipiwai Trail – 5 out of 5 stars. Coming in at #1 is the 4-mile (round trip) Pipiwai Trail, located at the Oheo Gulch (7 Sacred Pools) in northeast Maui, in the Haleakala National Park. What a hike! Getting to it could be considered a plus or a minus, depending on whether you love or hate the thought of driving the winding Road to Hana and then another 12 miles. Once there, you’re in for a treat! What makes it so special?
1) It’s challenging. Not terribly strenuous, but the 600 feet of elevation gain, in a jungle, on a warm day, will cause you to break a sweat. Plan on 2 hours if you’re in good shape.
2) It’s very well maintained—the national park system is obviously proud of it, as they should be. And a shout out to them for giving a free annual pass to all national parks for active and retired military members!
3) There is an AMAZING bamboo forest! I’ve walked through scenic bamboo patches before and admired the beauty. Multiply that by 1000! This is not a patch but a forest—tens of thousands of 40’ high bamboo trees, tightly packed together and swaying in the wind. Walking through them, sometimes along a boardwalk, was mystical, magical, and marvelous!
4) Massive banyan trees! The Lahaina Banyan is the largest and most impressive in Maui, and its children somehow ended up on the Pipiwai Trail. I kept waiting for Tim Burton to descend from the massive, intertwined branches with butterflies emerging from his nostrils.
5) Makahiku Falls! Stop at a scenic overlook to catch your breath and take in these incredible falls. It looks like a place where God might have considered placing Adam and Eve back in the day. There are off-limits, fenced off spur trails leading from here to “infiniti pool” atop Makahiku Falls and another to its base. In 2003, a 39-year-old high school chemistry teacher from Kentucky and his 11-year-old daughter died while taking one of these spurs and crossing a shallow stream to get to the waterfall. A flashflood hit the canyon and a 6-foot wall of water swept them downstream. Two other family members watched in horror and were later awarded a $5M settlement. Now the area is off-limits.
6) Various bridges over Pipiwai stream, with views of more step waterfalls and pools…and then a stream crossing—not difficult, but your feet are getting wet.
7) And finally, the big payoff…the 400’ Waimoiku Falls! Your hour or so of hiking is rewarded with a stunning view of this magnificent waterfall towering above you. We complied with the sign warning not to go closer or be subject to a $100 fine. Other visitors went right on by the sign to the base of the falls.
There you have it, my Top 10 Hikes in Maui. For pictures from each of these hikes, check out the Maui albums on my Facebook page or the above links.
I should also mention a hike I had hoped to do but did not get to: the Wai’anapanapa State Park & Coastal Trail – This was one of my must-do stops at Mile Marker 32 on the Road to Hana. Sadly, when we arrived at the parking lot, they told us entry required a pass, available only online, and they were sold out for the day. Thus, we never got to see the famed black sand beach, twisted foliage, lava caves and tubes, and even a blowhole. I suspect it would have been a more jungle-like version of the previously described Hoapili Trail and Kapalua Coastal Trail. I also suspect it would have fallen in my Top 6 or 7 hikes. For more info on the Waianapanapa Coastal Trail… https://www.alltrails.com/trail/hawaii/maui/waianapanapa-coast-trail-south?u=i
There are many other hiking trails on Maui. Some were longer than we wanted to tackle for a day hike…
If you’ve never been to Maui, I hope you can go one day. There’s a reason the Conde Nast Traveler readers have voted it the “top island in the world” for 20 consecutive years. While you’re there, I hope you get to experience some of these amazing hikes in God’s beautiful creation!
